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PowerStrip is try-before-you-buy shareware. Should you discover the software suits you, an individual user license is US29.95. Single and multiple licenses are offered using a secure online order form, or on the phone, fax or send. For additional quantity and site license information, please contact
Registered users of PowerStrip 3 can upgrade on the latest release anytime by simply downloading and installing the modern shareware version above, or with the programs Live Update option: PowerStrip menu Options Online services Live update. Registered users of older versions of PowerStrip can upgrade to Version 3 on request, by contacting Upgrades, replacements and renewals cost nothing, however, your request have to be accompanied by experience of exact name or email you used when you registered.
Answers to commonly asked questions and general tech support can be found from the forums here.
PowerStrip provides advanced, multi-monitor, programmable hardware support to your wide range of graphics cards - through the venerable Matrox Millennium I to AMD Radeon graphics. It is the only program of the company's type to aid multiple graphics cards from multiple chipset vendors, simultaneously, under every Windows operating system from Windows 95 to your x64-bit edition of Windows 7. A simple menu that pops up in the system tray provides usage of some 500 controls over your display hardware, including sophisticated color correction tools, period level adjustments over screen geometry, and driver independent clock controls. A powerful application profiler can detect when programs are launched and respond by activating specific display settings, gamma adjustments, performance switches and also clock speeds - returning everything to normalcy when the program closes. In-game gamma hotkeys allow you to light in the darkest hallways during hands per hour, and hardware control of refresh rates - with floating point precision - ensure youre never stuck at merely 60Hz whatever OS youre using. A quick setup wizard gets you operational with minimal fuss, extensive context-sensitive assistance is available for all controls, and live updates are supported to guarantee youre always running the newest release. Finally, a selection of system and productivity tools - one of them, extensive diagnostics, PCIe and AGP device configuration, EDID decoding, desktop icon management, a process idle thread, Windows resource monitoring, an anti-burn-in orbiting option, physical memory optimization, an on-screen display, plus the most advanced monitor support in the marketplace - round out your compact 1MB package.
PowerStrip 3 was generated for use with newer display cards, but to safeguard your investment in older hardware a massive amount otherwise orphaned display adapters are supported, including those according to chips from 3dfx, Number Nine, Cirrus Logic, Rendition, S3, and Tseng Labs. However, a number of chips sustained by older versions of PowerStrip have regrettably been dropped from Version 3. If needed, PowerStrip 2.78 has become available here.
PowerStrip is try-before-you-buy shareware. Should you get the software meets your requirements, just one user license is US29.95. Single and multiple licenses can be acquired using a secure online order form, or by telephone, fax or snail mail. For additional quantity and site license information, please contact
Registered users of PowerStrip 3 can upgrade on the latest release any time by simply downloading and installing the newest shareware version above, or using the programs Live Update option: PowerStrip menu Options Online services Live update. Registered users of older versions of PowerStrip can upgrade to Version 3 on request, by contacting Upgrades, replacements and renewals have the freedom, however request have to be accompanied by experience of exact name or email you used when you initially registered.
Answers to commonly asked questions and general tech support can be found inside forums here.
PowerStrip provides advanced, multi-monitor, programmable hardware support with a wide range of graphics cards - from your venerable Matrox Millennium I to AMD Radeon graphics. It is the only program of the company's type to compliment multiple graphics cards from multiple chipset vendors, simultaneously, under every Windows operating system from Windows 95 towards the x64-bit edition of Windows 7. A simple menu that pops up through the system tray provides use of some 500 controls over your display hardware, including sophisticated color correction tools, period level adjustments over screen geometry, and driver independent clock controls. A powerful application profiler can detect when programs are launched and respond by activating specific display settings, gamma adjustments, performance switches and in many cases clock speeds - returning everything on track when the program closes. In-game gamma hotkeys allow you to light inside the darkest hallways during action, and hardware treating refresh rates - with floating point precision - ensure youre never stuck only 60Hz it doesn't matter what OS youre using. A quick setup wizard gets you installed and operating with minimal fuss, extensive context-sensitive guidance is available for all controls, and live updates are supported to make certain youre always running the modern release. Finally, a mixture of system and productivity tools - particularly, extensive diagnostics, PCIe and AGP device configuration, EDID decoding, desktop icon management, a method idle thread, Windows resource monitoring, an anti-burn-in orbiting option, physical memory optimization, an on-screen display, along with the most advanced monitor support on the market - round the compact 1MB package.
PowerStrip 3 is meant for use with newer display cards, but to safeguard your investment in older hardware a number of otherwise orphaned display adapters are supported, including those dependant on chips from 3dfx, Number Nine, Cirrus Logic, Rendition, S3, and Tseng Labs. However, a small number of chips based on older versions of PowerStrip have regrettably been dropped from Version 3. If needed, PowerStrip 2.78 has become available here.
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Hervorragendes Tuning-Utility fГr die Grafikkarte und den Monitor. PowerStrip erweitert das Einstellungen-MenГ von Windows, optimiert die DirectX- und OpenGL-Leistung und ermГglicht Farbkorrekturen.
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Basiselement von PowerStrip ist ein erweitertes MenГ zur Anpassung grundsГtzlicher Grafik-Eigenschaften. Dazu zГhlt etwa die Bildschirm-AuflГsung, die Bild-Wiederholrate, die Farbpalette und ein Schnellzugriff auf voreingestellte Bildschirm-AuflГsungen fГr bestimmte Zwecke. Zudem kГnnen bestimmte Anpassungen fГr DirectX und OpenGL vorgenommen werden.
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Turn an existing battery powered drill in a wall power unit. Edit In the spirt of Instuctables, Im adding many of the sugestions for improvement and why
First, glance at the drill. On the side it can hopefully possess a description on the battery pack. If it doesnt, research what a replacement would
Open inside the drill. Its helpful to figure out which leads around the drill and power source are which. If you dont, as well as the drill doesnt work,
Cut the finish off the power source. If I had the various components, I might have put a jack from the drill. Instead, its perminent. Strip and tin
Put all of it back together. It works! Well, it truely does work as a drill, that's what i needed. It only overpowers the initial setting within the clutch,
Turn an existing battery powered drill right into a wall power unit.
In the spirt of Instuctables, Im adding several of the sugestions for improvement and why I didnt do stuff that way inside the first place. Some I had considered, others i'd not.
Q. Why not just devote new batteries?
A. Too expensive. The drill was 5 with case, extra drill and a pair of battery packs and worked for some time. The wall wart was free at another garage sale. Brand new unit could be about 20 and also be ready out from the box. A new group of batteries and also a charger for him or her would not be really worth time or money. If it would have been a good brand name around the other
A. While searching for which cells from the battery were live and that were dead, I lost the various. Thus, no battery shell to reload:
Q Use a Zener transorb/5 f. capacitor/ect.
A Aint got one. Too expensive to travel out and find some to play with. I dont feel at ease enough with electronics to risk the various.
Q Use a more efficient transformer.
A Aint got one. That and i have no idea how much I can pump threw the motor before it burns out. I may finish up finding a bigger transformer, or giving it a go on AC current-but not untill I dont need this place any longer.
You may notice a theme here-this can be a cheep fix using what I had around. Nothing fancy, a small percentage pre-planning to get inside way of getting something finished. Are there good ways to do this? Absolutely:
if you happen to be lazy just like me and decide to solder into the large battery clips as opposed to fiddle using the wires from the case. or, you cant find your soldering gun but tend to find your butane
and, yes, i screwed the batteries before i did a chance to utilize
Looks just like the guys at have built a commercial unit that provides more power when compared to a battery. Only the dewalt 20v can be acquired now, nevertheless it looks like Milwaukee and Makita versions is going to be available soon. Can t wait to obtain my practical one of these!
p The most critical step is to discover the power-tool s maximum current lure Amps amperes./p p You do that by disassembling the drill, looking inside, and reading off with the motor s casing it s power characteristics./p p If you happen to be lucky it's going to say just how many Amps the motor will draw under full load. If it doesn't list the Amps that should probably say simply how much power it in Watts, after which you make use of the quot;Power Watts Current Amps x Voltage Volts quot; equation or simply just P I x V to fix for Current and learn how many Amps the motor will draw./p p Then you should find a GOOD AC to DC power converter that can provide the proper Voltage AND Current Amps to your motor. Remember !, the Amps figure is the MOST critical component. If you provide less Amps the motor will probably be underpowered eventually burning your power converter, possibly itself likewise. If this happens that may definitely build a fire hazard. Be cautious./p p Ideally the supplied current needs to be at least 25% a lot more than the motor s requirements, if I were you I d go as high as 50% to be for the safe side./p p If you perform the math, you will find that the Amperage required is simply too high for that power converter transformer you're using. Eventually, you'll wear out of the motor and ultimately if employed for harder/longer jobs you may risk the power overheating, metling possibly cacthing fire./p p Remember DC will not travel more than long cable runs, specifically Amp draw is high. You need a high quality AC to DC transformer efficient at providing high Amps, with heavy gauge cables, that will make the transformer big, heavy, cumbersome to make use of and above all expensive./p p This is often a nice attempt but it really won t work inside the long run. Plus you're exposing by yourself to some degree of danger. Battery operated equipment are getting more cost-effective by the day while becoming stronger, efficient and safer with LiPo battery technology./p p I say, throw this old tool away I mean dispose it responsibly and have yourself a an alternative one, altogether. /p
p Don t just see the techno-babble - in case you aren t sending a check mark, an upgrade isn t going to proceed. That s the basis with the article./p p quot;More affordable quot; doesn t mean a drop in price from 150 to merely 125. See above: /p
i tried this and it also didnt be employed by some reason!!! i made use of 1000mah, dc AND yes i had created the right polarity. lahh
What, exactly, does the power say-and so are you sure the power and drill worked in the first place?
I possess a 12v drill: /webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId110 amp;storeId10151 amp;partNumber289449 br br What do I ought to change it to wall powered, whilst being able to work with all torque settings without burning it but having its full power?
p You can t, just dispose of it properly and get a brand new one with lithium technology power pack./p
p The motors in drills are power hungry. My dewalt just acquired a 20A rectifier The part that creates AC to DC. It s gonna require a high power power pack to figure efficiently./p
9.6v dc w ac switch, 1000mah. we used it within a 9.6v cordless drill used aligator clips for contacts inside the drill handle. and i also no the power works, because i take advantage of it a great deal for random things, lol, plus tested it using a multimeter. And for your drill, ya it functions cause i took the car battery out and completed it w dc batterys are dc, then completed it with ac, wouldn't work, i really put it back in and it truly does work w battery still, but no
Mah can be milli-amp-hours, odd for a strength but normal for any battery. I suppose there will probably be some style of switch mechanical or electrical-checking the status from the battery if this runs on Li-ion or something around the drill. Other than that, I don t know without seeing it: Might be as elementary as the clips not making good contact or as complicated as being the electronics within the drill and power source fighting against each other over power requirements.
its an electrical adapter such as this a relnofollow?productId2049712 amp;cp2032056.2818119.2818335 amp;parentPagefamily/a brbr/except it truly is 9.6 volt, 1000mah, and AC/DC capable.:-? oh ya also i put semi new copper plated steel aligator clips on instead with the plug on the br/
So, apart from being very different, it s the same strength? Which drill? And how have you any idea that the clips are earning good contact?
no i showed you that because it truly is the same sort of power source im using, just i don't realize what thos these are known as, well, i showed a pic! What drill, umm it is often a offbrand no namer i do believe? but it truely does work, i no it can make good contact because i opened the drill up once to determine the motor, to see how it truely does work:-, even so put everthing back together, and it functions the same with batterys mainly because it did b4 i opened it. plus the contacts are thick bars, witch nicely got cliped onto by my aligator clips:-D
I m guessing too few amps. At 1.2 amps, mine would be a bit anemic:
p I think you mean you used a wall wort rated for 1, 000mA./p p Power tools work with a lot a lot more than 1, 000mA. Drills use around 3A 3, 000mA. Saws may easily pull 18-25A./p
p Nice, /p p I Convert an electric battery of Cordless drill to ATX energy/p
p This is just not safe nor would it provide nearly enough power. br I m looking at doing this right, the problem is that you'll require a 500W strength for this to operate right. A drill may easily draw 30amps while your tiny little wall adapter can maybe provide 1amp. This will either bring about poor performance, a burnt fuse within the wall adapter, or perhaps a housefire or both. br br Don t underestimate the hazards you re taking. Insurance companies don t cover shit in this way./p
I possess a full number of dewalt 18v, would this
p The easiest way is to utilize a DC to AC inverter however they are not very efficient. I ve seen people use car or Marine batteries marine is best and stay longer with an inverter to become able make use of AC to power the drill. I have also seen instructables in which a guy used with DC chance to power the drill however it was similar to 90v. Hope this will assist get a little understanding. /p
p I love it. I am so for using what we have to eliminate a current problem. I do involve some electronics experience and took this idea to a new level. I used a classic microwave transformer and converted it with a 20v transformer to perform my 18v dewalt tools. the batteries were 92 bucks each this was considerably more cost effective. Even though I are in possession of 2 new batteries I still use the electricity pack. If I m near a plug why get rid of my batteries when I need to do lots of drilling. If you want I will share my information considering I must rebuild the AC to DC converter that I put inside an electric battery housing coming from a dead battery. Have make use of a stronger rectifier and perhaps add a small fan and keep it from burning out under high stress. /p
I employ a 12v drill: /webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId110 amp;storeId10151 amp;partNumber289449 br br What do I should change it to wall powered, whilst being able to work with all torque settings without burning it but which consists of full power?
Good idea. I probably possess a wall wart which is beefy enough.
I imagine that after christmas, I m going to look to Big lots in the event you don t know, it s an enormous cheap stuff store and find a crappy cordless drill set for 25 dollars. I ve stood a crappy drill, so I know which the batteries go first, and so I am about to convert it to wall power. I m going make use of an 18v strength for my laptop that died likely to 18 volt battery- perfect!. as with the battery, I m gonna repurpose it being a battery for any really ghetto electric scooter that I made from a vintage razor scooter, some lumber, and parts from an electricity wheels car someone was throwing out. I was capable of wire the scooter in parallel, not series in order that it goes faster, nevertheless it still doesn t go fast, maybe a little bit faster than the usual walk. if I added an 18v battery, I think I might just add it as being a speed boost type thing, like wire it in parallel with a few diodes and convey a that way battery won t go out in four seconds. br br the reason why I say after christmas is really because I don t have money currently well, I do, but I type of need it for gas and insurance so I ought to get a job and find money. that, and my mom informed me I couldn t use my dad s workshop for your rest from the year because I cannot keep anything clean cruel and unusual! so I can really t do just about anything anyway. br br and therefore ends the rant of codongolev. have a very nice day.
I ve found how the key for power isn t voltage, it s amps. So utilize biggest amperage transformer that you may.
yeah, the computer strength is 3.9 amps or something like that ridiculous like this. I think it ll work.
I ve done two drills similar to this. br One a 12v craftsman drill where I used the 12V 750 mA adapter for your charger that included it. This one seems underpowered. br br For the second one a black and decker 18V I used the largest adapter physically also as voltage that I found a 30V 500mA and this seems to be effective great. Not sure about longevity though nonetheless it hasn t melted yet.: br
This is really a cool project. nbsp; I am thinking about doing similar thing to my old Dewalt 12V drill. nbsp; I don t have a very quot;wall-wart, quot; but I have a vintage computer strength that has a 12V rail and may supply around 10 A on that rail. nbsp; It s rated at 350 Watts max power. nbsp; Would applying this power supply which has a rectifier work? br brCrude schematic below: br brWall jack-PC nbsp;power-rectifier-drill br
Thank you for supporting my sort out your daily visits to my instructable. brbra relnofollow /a br/
You re welcome. But I simply have the e-mail me option activated and visit when commented on. brbr/Oh, as well as the argument became a relnofollow /id/PlasticWelding/?commentsallCR0B0T4FSMSZXDS here/a. Not the initial time it has been tried: br/
If you truly desire to tempt fate, try connecting the drill motor right to AC. There are some permanent magnet motors I ve noticed in drills that run either on DC or AC at 60 Hz. When you carry out the test, make sure to make use of a circuit breaker!
For a tad bit more safety you might also throw it on the dimmer exchange signal of drop the voltage. You might still burn inside the dimmer though, they re not usually rated for high-draw conditions. It would drop the voltage though.
You definitely need to have a rectifier on the permanent magnet drill motor, of course, if variable speed the controller will fry. Also DEFINITELY should reduce the voltage. 110 will allow the magic smoke beyond a 14 volt motor immediately.
For a run-of-the-mill DC motor, that is certainly true. However, the motors in hand-held drills tend to be designed to own on either 12 volts DC or 120 volts AC, and since jtobako points out are universal motors.
universal motors ones with brushes in my opinion can be run with AC or DC. i saw somewhere a thief was running items like AC angle grinders off 3-4 car batteries to have enough voltage rather than springing for the inverter.
I like Now, could it be set up so a defunct battery shell could be retro-fitted with the adaptor and also a cord and keep the cordless function by switching to your normal battery?
Yes which is the way mine is put in place. Its a 18 volt ryobi. It runs using two 12v batteries in the series, the car battery that it had, or my car. It is often a great idea to retro fit a dead power supply with power jack. Just be careful once you take the pack apart. The batteries usually hold a number of the contacts in place inside pack. A bit of epoxy will solve that dilemna.
same idea, only one step removed. you will be able to position the transformer within the battery shell to offer the original balance.
ve got a vintage Chicago Power Tools drill which has a dead battery this will be perfect for. brbr/By the you want to make this happen instructable however, you want a drill that could function at full power you ll have to obtain an AC adapter wall-wart which can at the least match or even surpass an original battery s current capability. The one within this instructable was probably looking to draw more current compared to the wall-wart was able to providing. Extended peak usage like this may overheat the transformer inside the wall-wart and throw a breaker or create a bunch of nice smoke. brbr/As the article author said in 1 br/more voltage with less current more RPMs with less power br/more current with less voltage more power with less RPMs br/also: more voltage AND more current more RPMs AND more power And overheated drill. brbr/So determined by which power you choose you may end up having a really big dremel moto-tool, an extremely small winch, a pile of molten, smoking slag, or perhaps a functioning drill. brbr/The best option is to stick using a PS that supplies the initial battery s voltage and matches or surpasses its current capabilities. br/
Yup, I just smoked a wall wart. Two twelve volt batteries from an upc in the series is effective though nevertheless portable! It runs great over car too.
you might just open battery unit up and replace cells with shiny a.
IF you could have batteries avalible. this is really a make-do. if i'd the money for first time batteries, i d rather have a very newer, better drill:
I ve just replaces my old 1200maH NiCad drill cells with 2700maH AA cells. While I was advertising online, I added 2 more to the voltage in the rated 12V to 14.4V. It now has in excess of twice battery life, is better because in the voltage increase and for that reason far generally seems to have suffered no ill-effects from overvolting it slightly. Oh, as well as the batteries from ebay resolved much cheaper over a new drill, which could still have used nicads and experienced a poor battery.
what did the newest charger cost?
I would recommend either running it well a car battery, or adding a 12 volt gelcell battery or perhaps a pack of cheap AA nicads I solder them in addition to short items of wire, then wrap duck tape around them to create a pack and utilize the wallwart to charge the batteries. That will work greater; also a small 12 volt drill motor can certainly draw over 30 amps under load.
Sounds great. Tell you what, I ll give back my address and you'll be able to mail me whichever you like: I didn t provide an extra list of batteries, I did possess a wall wart. This is about forcing do. Best would have been to visit out and buying a 300 Makitta rechargable-but that aint gunna happen:
It s easier to just post a hyperlink. a relnofollow Here your going./a 10 of which at 85 cents each, and it will be possible to do over drill holes in styrofoam with letter drills. br/
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