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It s time again for another installment of an Making A Thing tutorial, where I design precisely the same part, time and time again, in multiple 3D design software applications.
Last week we took a peek at FreeCAD, a complimentary, open source parametric modeller. It s an exceptionally powerful tool, and never it s finally time for you to complete our model of an strange object ripped through the pages connected with an 80-year-old drafting textbook.
Here s some links to previous Making A Thing tutorials, doe:
To the proper is the thing we re making. It s from an 80-year-old book on drafting.
A not enough people have asked about for with this book. My copy is at dead tree format, and I haven t yet built a manuscript scanner.
If anyone out there gets the 1st or 2nd edition of Engineering Drawing French, 1911 or 1918, please scan it its public domain and post one of the links.
In a final installment in this tutorial, we went over installing FreeCAD, basic fundamentals of parametric modelling, and drawing a couple of circles and lines. Finishing off our thing is simply process of drawing lines, arcs, and fillets, constraining them, and tearing nice hair out for the inability of FreeCAD tell you the one unconstrained look at your sketch oh my gosh god. After a little learning from your errors, we get something like the pic below, a completely constrained sketch of all of our switch base:
Yes, it s ugly, nevertheless it s accurate. Now it s time and energy to move on towards the third dimension, extruding our thing up 7/16th connected with an inch. Note that I really don t cherish the absolute proportions of what I m designing. FreeCAD is metric only, so I m designing everything around eigths associated with an inch. Slicers permit you to scale a print anyway
Once we've got our part drawn and constrained, the Solver around the left hand toolbar will inform us we have a completely constrained sketch. Now it s time for it to extrude our object. Click Close around the Tasks bar, therefore you ll wind up with a number of options: Create Sketch, Pad, Pocket, Revolution, and Groove. The tool we use for extrusion is Pad, so click that. Switch over towards the isometric view, set the material parameters to the correct depth of extrusion, so you ll have an awesome filled solid. Awesome.
While we couldn t perform interior fillets on our part from the Part Design workbench the fillet command only works between two lines, not much of a line along with an arc. Now that we ve extruded our thing in to the Z axis, we could finally add those fillets. In the 3D view, select the edge separating the fundamental washer in our part as well as the long flange.
After that, we a fairly good-looking part. We re not done, though. We still desire to make the other part in our thing, the countersunk flange, as I prefer to call it.
Right now we've the bottom in our thing designed, but we re still missing the flange together with the countersunk hole. To add this, we ll need to build the outline in the countersunk flange part of our own thing. Do that by going int the Part Design workbench, drawing a totally constrained part, and extruding it the same as we did with all the first part. When we re done, we ll have something looks like this:
With that done, it s the perfect time to assemble these parts. When we go back on the Part workbench, we ll see such as the pic on the right. Our parts is there, but we ll have to arrange them correctly and join them somehow. After that, we ll ought to put the holes in your flange. Easy enough.
In the Part workbench, find the flange you recently made within the part tree for the thing. There s a tab with the bottom labeled Data, this also is where we ll place our flange for the end on the washer part of our own thing. Play around using the position until everything s correct, and we have now 90% in our thing done.
Select the face within the flange we would like to drill our holes into. We ll need to produce two sketches with this; one for that through hole, along with a second to the counterbored hole. Sketch small hole, then remove it using the Pocket tool. This tool is really the opposite on the Pad tool; it extrudes down as opposed to up.
In another sketch within the face from the flange, draw the more expensive hole, and Pocket it down on the proper depth.
And there s a completed part. Export, perform a little Booleans if you must, so we re done.
FreeCAD is surely an amazingly powerful tool, but also in making this tutorial I did notice a little wonkiness inside FreeCAD interface; while using middle mouse button to pan the sketch from the current view didn t always work, adding a line sometimes though rarely ends up with freezes, there were several instances the place that the UX is merely crummy.
Seeing as how FreeCAD is now in version 0.13, and maybe the fact that I m with all the Windows version, these kinds of thing is for being expected. It s still being improved, and although I believe FreeCAD will in the end become one of the top open source design and modeling softwares in existence, still needs a little work.
If you already know Python and C, therefore you re looking for an open source project to give rise to, I d highly suggest helping out the FreeCAD devs. There s without doubt in my mind FreeCAD will in the end be as popular for mechanical and 3D design as KiCAD is good for electronic design within a few years. FreeCAD remains to be a great package now, however it needs a bit of work prior to going mainstream.
That s it with this Making A Thing tutorial. Next week Hackaday contributor Rich will placing the first part of an tutorial on Solidworks. It s awesome, and you also ll make out the print.
After the Soildworks tutorial, I have simply no idea where these Making A Thing tutorials will likely go. Between the half-dozen software systems this series has covered to date, We ve covered you'll find method of creating a physical object to be 3D printed AutoCAD for traditional drafting, FreeCAD for parametric modeling, and OpenSCAD for scripting 3D modeling.
Writing more tutorials for other software applications would only duplicate what this series already does with less popular softwares. This means I m sort of inside a bind about what to write next for these particular Making A Thing tutorials.
If you need to idea of what this number of tutorial ought of do next, drop a note within the comments. I ve also considered acquiring a Printrbot Simple and showing the many ways a print can fail plus the ways to remedy it. If you have an even better idea, you re always competent to suggest something inside comments.
February 15, 2014 at 10:13 am
Wonkiness. I will try. Looking forward for the Solid works. Thanks for these tutorials.
February 15, 2014 at 10:25 am
Agreed, thank you for doing these. Seeing how each of the different CAD packages approach exactly the same part is incredibly interesting.
February 15, 2014 at 10:33 am
February 17, 2014 at 5:06 pm
I just received done learning Designspark PCB, originating from Protel 99se. For free software, this indicates to work rather effectively to me, plus more intuitive than Eagle. The autorouting could possibly be improved upon a lttle bit, speculate I more often than not route manually, that's not an issue for me personally.
A series on Designspark Mechanical can be awesome.
I ve been learning DesignSpark Mechanical. Once you learn the ropes, it can be fantastic for direct modeling. Kind of like SketchUp, but you end up getting a manifold object able to print, rather than hole filled monster mesh
February 15, 2014 at 10:34 am
Engineering Drawing. You can download a PDF.
February 15, 2014 at 12:51 pm
Covers some programs that may do mechanical simulation also to test out a design before committing it to print.
February 15, 2014 at 1:04 pm
It could be extremely helpful to take a quick tour around software that may do stress simulation so you are able to identify just what the weak points on the design are.
February 16, 2014 at 8:06 am
Yes, and while it really is doing that stress testing in your case, it ought to make you coffee and wash inside the dishes too.
After that it may redesign your part for you personally so you do not need to perform actual work anymore, which means you have the perfect time to take up another job to spend your yearly SW subscription.
February 17, 2014 at 12:51 am
I have gotten a spend playtime with FEM programs before and they is usually a bit tricky to obtain the hang of, so I definately with Dax. Although the 3D printing process causes weaknesses within the material will not be accounted for from the FEM software, it'd certainly be a good indicator of the place that the design needs work.
Just internet marketing rude, it is possible to make our coffe and wash the bathroom. We ll also let you already know any changes we ll require you to implement after we see the results.
February 15, 2014 at 2:23 pm
Will there be a short article on solidworks? I am currently learning it in Engineering school at this time with near to no instructions besides the professor telling us to simply watch cadjunkie on YouTube Feels great to pay for tuition to see YouTube videos!
February 15, 2014 at 3:15 pm
Yep. Solidworks next Tuesday or Wednesday.
At least by doing this you re paying tuition to study Hackaday.
February 15, 2014 at 9:35 pm
Haven t used Solidworks for two main years, but back when I learnt it I had a suitable tutor that I surpassed into two or three weeks by merely going throughout the tutorials. Unless they ve changed it recently, Solidworks tutorials are superior to any teacher, at least for that basic stuff.
February 15, 2014 at 2:45 pm
all? My dear boy, from what I ve seen, that could well be a life s work. Though perhaps 101 methods to get your print to stick could be a good start, and in all probability cover the main cause of print failure it is from an ABS user, mind you.
I d wish to see the free version of Creo Pro/Engineer, though that s mainly even though I use a spin-off version from it from about a decade ago.
February 15, 2014 at 3:29 pm
February 15, 2014 at 9:25 pm
Your Countersunk Flange Could have been made like a sketch around the face from the part you're strategically placing it alongside.
February 16, 2014 at 1:33 am
Nice guide, and simply what I need!
But how could I now attempt transforming this part in to a CAD mould for casting?
Is it possible to make a type of negative of the 3d-shape?
February 16, 2014 at 6:01 am
Yeah, just put a huge box within and subtract your part on the box. You ll have to add some sprues and gates, and doubtless a parting line, though
February 16, 2014 at 9:40 am
I just dunno why wasn t flange constructed with another sketch instead with having fun with moving it. Or either weren t stated in two parts and assembled eventhough it s still pain in FreeCAD
February 17, 2014 at 7:13 am
Brian the guide hasn't been entirely clear. The flange ought to have been sketched inside the XZ plane. This way, you might be already 90 percent aligned assuming you build off 0, 0 centered and moving upwards. You then need only push the part back inside Y. Also, the middle hole may be pre bored inside sketch, leaving just the shoulder for being cut out with primitives.
February 17, 2014 at 8:39 am
The sketch really should have been made within the face it attaches to, not just around the xz plane. That can have solved the alignment issue
February 17, 2014 at 12:06 pm
You know, I know, just why it s dislike that? Or assigned in assign module? This whole series is usually a bit messy in my opinion:
February 16, 2014 at 3:43 pm
For another part with the series, why don't you consider some articles regarding how to get from a CAD file to your physical object different strategies to get the files was required to print, and maybe a couple of pointers on the you would must do to mill it.
February 17, 2014 at 5:10 pm
To complete the seriesin addition for the suggestions above, it might seem appropriate to get a recap article that compares the previously reviewed packages, weighing the pros and cons of each and every.
February 18, 2014 at 3:37 am
I feel that having the six most in-demand packages covered is really a great start, but must go somewhere, so making something s actually useful. an issue that people can draw, and after that press print on their own 3d printer.
Start with package 1 again showing the way to draw these elements in each with the packages.
Then do the identical thing which has a different part.
Basically, the thought for what I m saying arises from this simple statement.
it s great to train people how make use of the software, however the tutorials until now have barely scratched the symptoms. and don t really teach much past the start-up tutorials likely included as animations using the packages could have taught anyway.
so step it, get yourself a more complex part and introduce more features.
February 19, 2014 at 8:09 pm
Do some KiCAD after SolidWorks You ll desire a new thing, but a sequence on PCB design could be cool, I could finally figure out how to stop using Fritzing.
Great series! If you re still adding going without running shoes, it will be great to view the part designed with Fusion 360, they have a totally free subscription level, especially useful comparison now which you ve done Solidworks.
Thanks, Bruce! Hey, hackaday I m the city manager for Fusion 360. As Bruce said, Fusion 360 is provided for free for enthusiasts you re not using Fusion for commercial purposes, and has a MakerWare plugin. Shout with any queries!
tearing hair out in the inability of FreeCAD to tell you the one unconstrained take into account your sketch my dear god.
Describes my situation exactly. I finished the initial drawing inside a few minutes. It was fully constrained. But the moment I trim the initial line out from it the whole thing would go to heck. I worked for a long time to get a completely constrained drawing without internal lines. No luck. The closest I get could was two unconstrained elements. I quit! Seems like the developers must work about the foundation before adding curtains.
Thanks because of this, but Dang! I was rather hoping that as opposed to saying Play around together with the position until everythings correct, that you were going to show me how you can constrain two objects to become adjacent to the other person:
If you sense you have covered making a physical object, why not consider some comments on slicers?
FreeCAD are able to use inches the choice is yours in your preferences.
December 12, 2015 at 9:44 am
i could help writing the tutorial from the same part in openscad, anyone interested?
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The file extension list you requested is shown in this article. It loads as being a table so please perform a moment as some on the lists are usually long. These lists contain basic information: the extension, the name with the program it truly does work with, the particular function with the file, and also the company which makes the program. Not all extensions have all with the data. Click about the extension of great interest to view the detail page for your extension. Total extensions through this list: 1817.
Please honor the copyright within this list. Do not copy it and display it elsewhere. Thank you.
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The file extension list you requested is shown here. It loads like a table so please perform a moment as some with the lists are very long. These lists contain basic information: the extension, the name in the program it truly does work with, the precise function on the file, and also the company which makes the program. Not all extensions have all from the data. Click about the extension appealing to understand the detail page with the extension. Total extensions during this list: 1817.
Please honor the copyright within this list. Do not copy it and display it elsewhere. Thank you.
GBG DraftMaker Drawing File think3, Inc.
DGIndex Project File Donald A. Graft
WebObjects Web Script Apple Inc.
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With Instructables you'll be able to share what you will be making with the world, and make use of an ever-growing community of creative experts.
While there is certainly great satisfaction in home based building PCBs, adding within the cost in the blank PCB, etchant as well as the drill bits concerns over 4 per
The full schematic is in and may be the schematic to get a solar powered radio repeater module.
The instructable links around the intro page show how to make a pcb from the schematic using EaglePCB. One main difference is the fact none from the design
Sometimes one finds an even better component from the library or changes part. To rip up and replace the tracks click within the ripup symbol green circle,
The manufacturer should know what drills to work with. Eagle has automatically used whatever drill fits the parts that have been chosen. Go to File/Run and select
Click on Process Job. This will create some files. Close down this menu using the x in the top right.
This will be the important bit. You need to click each one with the tabs circled in green and make sure that Mirror circled in yellow is off.
I collected 10 files, put them inside a temp directory and used winzip to generate a single zip file. I have a very feeling that you or two
The drill files could be viewed having a text editor. The Gerber files is usually viewed with a free of charge Gerber file viewer. I went on the website
This company OurPCB is within China and stood out from some in the others in this they freely advertised their price for small quantities. Shipping is FedEx
While there's great satisfaction home based building PCBs, adding the cost in the blank PCB, etchant and also the drill bits relates to over 4 per board. But for 6.25 a board the main thing might be made professionally. This Instructable takes you from the steps to build the Gerber files that this PCB manufacturers need. The total cost was 75US including shipping for 12 boards. 3 boards could be about US62.
p You guys are br really professional. When I started doing a global project, and I br contacted Robert of SysPCB in China, always was very attentive and prepared to br supply the necessary assist to avoid mistakes, today as part of your I appreciate br every one of the time devoted on the project of PCBs and everything I learned from./p
p thankyou to the wonderful walkthrough. This is actually helpful because communicating together with the manufactures about design requirements is basically difficult without gerber files./p
p so can you create gerber file yourself?/p
p There have lots approaches to get a pcb board to acquire, For example: get in touch with skype: live:zoeoyang/p
p This you are able to try using this type of PCB fab a /e relnofollow /e/a, they're special in PCB prototyping./p p With more than A decade from the field of PCB prototype and fabrication, also their price is quite cheap, Even many price-sensitive customers like students and hobbyists largely depend on us for PCB prototype and fabrication orders/p
p We are professional PCB Manufacturer in India. We specially help small batch qty. shipped the PCB across world. /p p you'll be able to visit for additional details/p
Hey, this is certainly one instructable that I have been using being a reference material to the last 3 year, whenever I desire to make a gerber file. I keep forgetting how to handle it while building a gerber file. I think its high time that I appreciate it. Thanks a bunch due to this amazing instructable.
p You re welcome, if you buy bulk PCBs feel free to send an email. skype: live:zoeoyang/p
I m surprised nobody has mentioned SparkFun s prototype service. They take small orders and combine them into panel orders which can be processed by Gold Phoenix. 2 layer boards cost 2.50 per square inch that has a 10 setup fee. They re slow, though. Expect to take no less than 3 weeks since they gather together an order order and transit from China, etc. Since they use Golden Phoenix to generate the boards, you currently know GP accept your files whenever you re ready for the larger batch.
p if you buy bulk PCBs feel free to send me a email. skype: live:zoeoyang/p
The Portland Dorkbot group does batch PCB orders each and every month for over 8 months, and recently opened it around anyone. Basically, the purchase price is 5 a square inch so you get three copies within your board. 6mil traces and spaces, double sided, with solder mask and silk screen. I submit a board or two almost monthly. This is great for Eagle CAD sized boards. Check it out at /wiki/pcborder
p double sided I can offer you 90 a square meter with surface treatment immersion gold./p
p double sided I can provide you with 90 a square meter with surface treatment immersion gold./p
And he accepts straight eagle files, and that means you don t even have to take care of gerbers whatsoever. I had one be get eighteen total boards that cost under 50. Granted twelve of the boards were really tiny.7 quot; diameter. I strongly suggest this.
p double sided I can present you with 90 a square meter with surface treatment immersion gold./p
Thanks when planning on taking me a revolution. When I process this board into files through CAM, I see the check box quot;Fill Pads quot; is checked and I can t uncheck it as it s grayed out. Sure enough the artwork inside the files generated has all on the pads filled in. I m doing home brew boards so I need these holes like a guide for my drill. Your assist in unfilling these holes is appreciated. br
p You can send me CAD file directly, or protel 99se, PAD, DXP files. We can make PCBs according them/p
Hi, br br I also have precisely the same problem. quot;Fill pads quot; is checked and I cannot un-check it. br br Please help when you figured out the answer. br br Thank you very much,
My misteak! Roller microchips should read roller micro switches! The kind which might be actuated by the cam. Is shaping laptop computer board and cutting slots for some with the components produced by another device such as a router not trace router that really needs a separate instruction set? br
I recently was required to build a simple PC board so I downloaded Eagle PCB. With the help of your couple of tutorials as well as your instructibles I was competent to complete the project to your finished, and previewable, gerber files. Your step by step instructions made this process very seamless. br I have one question though. My PC board will need to have a u shaped cutout inside top connected with an otherwise rectangular board. I also should mount some roller microchips about this side where there can be an angle and extremely specific measurements between holes. br Is there a feature in Eagle PCB which allows more specific adjustments for the size with the board beyond pulling in around the side frames and is also there methods to locate non-pad holes for mounting the micro switches in order that they are inside a very precise location and could be drilled in the event the boards are manufactured? I do develop the entire project in AutoCAD and I use a drill layout and shape as one from the layers. I am just struggling to figure out tips on how to export this layer in the format that could be combined while using output files from Eagle PCB. br Thank you for your help as well as for taking time for it to respond. br Dale
Thankyou to the kind words. br br I am not sure about changing the board shape but I think there are many instructables that may show tips on how to do this. Search for Eagle? Also you would probably should ok this having a PCB fab house. Maybe start using the PCB manufacturer first. br br Re non pad holes, I have found it easiest to make a new part. There are instructables in order to do this. One with the things you may add with a new part can be a hole of numerous sizes. It helps to possess the exact part dimensions. br br Sorry I can t help further but there are more instructables compiled by authors who know much more about Eagle than me! br br Cheers, James Moxham
This comment can be late inside the game: br br quot;always autoroutes the full board quot; br Not true. br I have been creating Arduino-size PCBs 80x100mm, 60x80mm with 3-4 extra SMD ICs, and Eagle has difficult experience completing it. One should take care with component placement otherwise you find yourself having to pick up a lot. br Oddly, despite having 2 ground planes, the place where I have been left hanging is ground connections! I ve been having luck achievable by moving signals around manually to permit the lower amp; upper ground areas overlap and adding a via to get in touch them. br I m with all the free eagle software, and contain the 1-sheet schematic pretty full up, not only a lot of interconnections demonstrated to free up space, lot of parts with just signal names hanging off. br
OurPCB sucks thundershit. I asked them for any quote over a 2.5 in x 4 in double sided PCB, and also the price came around 6.30 USD 30 USD ! shipping and 100 USD tooling charge. Yep, 136.30 USD for the 2.5 in x 4 in double sided PCB. No thanks, I ll keep making my own, personal.
p Our unit price will probably be 0.54/pcs tooling charge 50 not including shipping cost/p
For smaller scale you require a different PCB company. Different companies focus on different things: br a?cPath6412/a br a?mainpageindex amp;cPath1920/a br br A quick price checker for these plus the rest: br a /a br br This one carries a really good student offer, 33 for 3 boards with all of bells and whistles I think br a //a br br And of course they already mentioned sparkfun plus some other sites which do single boards at the higher price. br
Just check that 100 - they attempted to charge me that last month nonetheless it was given it was the Chinese New Year and I think they wanted a trip. 50 could be the usual charge. I think in case you want only 1 board do it that has a prototype. If you need 3, there could well be other manufacturers in which the price is cheaper because you are able to piggyback on other folks s orders. But when you want 10 boards or even more, it ultimately ends up very the best value IMHO. Tonight I m sending off an investment for 10 sprinkler controller boards and it truly does work out value for money, especially when I cost within my hourly rate building 10 prototypes with point out point wiring vs 1.5 hours designing a PCB. Maybe try trying to find some of these other manufacturers that piggyback single orders.
I think otherwise, 4 bucks a board? Maybe in case you buy sets from radioshack. For me it costs of a dollar a board to produce a t home.
It depends in the event you add inside setup fee and also the shipping fee, which might be fairly fixed regardless how many boards. I just ordered another batch of 20 and also the actual board cost was 23c each.
I found selling real estate on eBay who sells 360sq. inches of single or double sided, any thickness, any size blank copper clad board for 10 10 shipping. I got 60 boards, for 20, that s about 0.33 per board. brbra relnofollow /acatalog//a sold me enough ferric chloride to last a lifetime for 20 brbr/My laser printer was 10 on Craig s List brbr/I built a heated, agitated etching tank for 25. brbr/So for 75 I can make 60 boards, that s slightly over 1 per board, plus I just reorder the copper. brbr/As far as ordering online, though, this can be a pretty cheap site for small quantities, thanks. Great instructions on making the Gerbers, too! br/
how did you're making the heated, agitated etching tank
Instead of the, it is possible to also use pigmented ink, yellow is better I guess it requires more pigment than other inks to check right, to act as being a resist. You do have to watch etching times?pnMISPRO-4-Y
1 of such - a relnofollow /webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId10051 amp;langId-1 amp;catalogId10053 amp;productId100292394 amp;N1000000390156501358/a brbr/2 these I actually used 4 of an smaller size, but I couldn t find those on-line - a relnofollow /webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId10051 amp;langId-1 amp;catalogId10053 amp;productId100402508 amp;categoryID501358/a brbr/1 of the - a relnofollow %402860da6c amp;ddkeySearch/a brbr/1 these - a relnofollow /webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId10051 amp;langId-1 amp;catalogId10053 amp;productId100401770/a brbr/1 old fishtank heater br/1 dale rod to stir br/2 lbs FeCl3 - a relnofollow /a brbr/My tank is 8 quot;x8 quot;x1 quot; on 8 quot;x8 quot; base I think. br/
Hello, brbr/I look at comments but puzzled by the low pcb costs. br/For example, I am using ExpressPCB tools. br/Cost of earning 4 boards sized 4 5.5 inches is 269, professional services including solder mask and silk screen. br/The standard service is 124 without solder mask and silk screen. br/PCB manufactures say need gerber files, can t practice it without. br/The valuation on gerber file order is 60. brbr/Andrew br/
It certainly is worth looking around for prices! On the past page can be a link to OurPCB and in addition they are a great deal cheaper. I got 12 boards 11x16cm made recently for 110. And due on the fixed setup/shipping but cost effective actual board cost, I also recently got 30 boards 5x5cm for 89. That includes mask, screen etc. Yes they want gerber files, but this instructable shows the best way to make them that doesn t cost anything and takes about thirty seconds once you already know the shortcuts. I m using Eagle along with the free version is only able to make beer-coaster sized boards. But in case you pay 125 once-off it is possible to go approximately a reasonable size. That will pay for itself over only a few runs. I hope this will assist:
Does not cost a dollar should you don t have every one of the stuff to practice it. I can say definitely getting boards made is often a lot less expensive than making them in your own home. I worked in a couple PCB fab places got a huge amount of tooling FR404 1/2 1/2. I employ a mill cut my, but time, forget it, just get em made. Right now Gold Phoenix is 99 for 155 sq in.
Again, a million thank you for your generousity in producing this fine tutorial. It s been a lifesaver!! One problem I am having at this time using both your tutorials, is always that I am obtaining a solder image without pad holes for my components. They could well be nice to help my drill as I am making my boards. THANK YOU!!!
Great to hear it can be helping someone! Can you provide even more information about the solder image? There is file but there are numerous other files produced. Are you making your individual boards or sending them off?
I m making my personal. I followed the instructions to some Tee. I did all of the steps when I comprehend the file, each of the pads are filled in. when I print that sol file, likewise, no holes.
The gerber files are for that fab house and splits the board into plenty of layers like the solder layer, top side, bottom side, text, and masks. So just bundle them up and send them to your fab house. br br If that you are making your individual boards, then I think you must print out the layers to be a file/print instead of create gerber files.
Hi, br brHaving problems while using drill file, all I nbsp;get as a possible output is: br brT01 0.032in brT02 0.040in brT03 0.079in brT04 0.126in br brand no other, then when it uploads to your PCB nbsp;Fab they are saying the drill file doesn t exist. What am nbsp;I nbsp;doing wrong? br
Thanks! I followed your tutorial to produce my first gerber several weeks ago! If you're looking for any good place for PCB manufacturer my Professor recommended PCB International. We easily fit in 4 different parts as well as the total charge only agreed to be 94. We just recieved them a couple of days ago and so they look great! nbsp;
I also love reading articles on homebrewing boards. A good source for PC boards and supplies is Nice article.
This instructable meets your needs on! It enabled me to build my files as well as the board became available perfectly. Thanks much! Ali
I get all of my boards carried out by Futurlec since they do a good job and only require the original PCB file, not every one of the separate files like gerber etc this would be the 21st century, time PCB makers realised that getting boards made ought to be simple - it s not nuclear physics after all. They will email that you pdf on the various layers and masks etc before manufacture be sure you ask with this and should you become a normal like me, they could even do all of your prototypes gratis, they actually The only thing to view out for is the fact that on multilayer boards, their drill sizes include the size with the hole they drill before they sleeve it, the finished board will have holes about 4 mil less space-consuming than your drill sizes specified. Also, being operating out of Thailand, there is usually a few language issues - just you should definitely ask for your PDF proof!
Good find! And a slightly weird experience as I was inside the Futurlec site buying some leds once this message came through. I just noticed your username - it is getting even weirder?! They have a mechanical quote system and to get a 80x160mm double sided board, 74 for 1 board, 99 for 3 and 190 for 10. Plus 14 shipping. I like Futurlec - 4 shipping for small orders worldwide vs 30 for digikey. Plus I emailed them once about adding an important part to their stock and in addition they added it soon after. Free protoboards? Nice. How does that drill size thing work? Does it imply that standard library files from, say, Eagle, finish up not quite fitting standard components or possibly 4mil they canrrrt notice, or do you simply push the constituents in?
The Futurlec online quote technique is pretty inaccurate, it always quotes greater than what they really charge you within my experience, so always email them and anyone in Oz to get yourself a
As a brand new Eagle user and being retired 12 years from design, this Instructable would be a HUGE help. thanks so much to take the the perfect time to put it together. mark
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