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Inspiring Mothers, Women and Families
Last year I saw a lot of people posting about these fun New Years Eve Countdown Activity bags. I didnt have the time to implement them into our New Years Eve Party for 2011 but wished to make sure that I made some with this years party.
I loved the entire concept behind the adventure bags and thought it might be a great way to maintain evening fun. We ordinarily have a low key party with the fam and their cousins. We play games for hours and just enjoy ringing inside New Year in each others company.
The concept behind these Countdown Activity Bags is reasonably simple. I took some mini party sacks that I grabbed from Hobby Lobby and glued some tags with clock faces to them. I have provided them available for you as a free download if you're interested. Click here:
Then you just draw the time hands on each bag to represent hourly of the evening you need to have an activity for your family and children to do together. I started the countdown bags using the year 2011 at 5:00 pm and created one for each and every hour till 12:00 am 2012.
In each bag I added a great time activities to perform on the hour. For example:
9:00 pm Make a New Years Craftconfetti, noise makers, hats, etc.
The above list is definitely an example of you skill. I am not posting our true list as the children have been recognized to read my blog every once in awhile! There are incredibly many proven fact that you could add into your bag that could make your party plenty of fun and be sure that you maintain your party guests guessing. I know my kids as well as their cousins will likely be excited seeing precisely what is in each bag.
Interested inside our other New Year s Eve posts? Check these out!
What activities can you place inside your Countdown Bags?
Amy Huntley would be the owner/author of The Idea Room. A mother of five, who enjoys sharing her love of as much as possible creative expecting inspiring other females and families. Connect with her on Google, or find out more of her posts.
What a very good idea!! I most often have great intentions of creating NYE personal occasions, and after that don t travel to actually doing anything, but this is a terrific way to keep the excitement going through the evening.
I have the same challenge with NYE! I thought this may be a good way to keep your troops entertained this season!
Love your designs and ideas! I am hosting a Happy Noon Year party that may include every one of the Mommies from my playgroup along with children. We are beginning at 10:30AM for brunch and counting down to Noon for that celebrating. Childrens ages cover anything from newborn to six, so have many ideas, but was ready for a perfect printable to tie all this together that has a clock face and I found your design. I bought a sizable disco ball, that could play like a ball drop at noon like a pinata stuffed with goodies, but I was wanting similar to you made around the bags to help them to grab and opt for their goods, so this is definitely the thing. Thank you for sharing and I cannot wait to know about the game even as have a family nights just us for the reason that night to experience some time then. Happy 2012!
That is certainly a fun idea! Sounds like a perfect way to celebrate using the youngest ones!
What the perfect idea Amy, Im sure this will build your evening more fun.
I appreciate this idea sadly, no-one stays awake around my little family to toast the New Year maybe in a short time when the students are bigger!. We celebrate gets hotter s midnight in Iceland, considering they are 6 hours in front of us we could toast over dinner!
Ha! Great idea. When becoming an adult my parents told us the the New York Times celebration was for where we had arrived which was really 2 hours behind!
What a lovely idea! I love that this possibilities are endless and you can replace the activities for any kids or adult party! Thanks for sharing!:
Yeah! That is what can make it fun. You can adjust it for just about any group.
My children are a bit older preteens and we all fill the luggage with different sorts of noisemakers, poppers, firecrackers, silly string, brainteasers with one prize for your winner, etc. I started the luggage when these folks were little and it also s been an excellent tradition each and every year! Thanks to the printable:
Great idea to fill them with a great time stuff too.
Large Stopwatch - Use the Stopwatch in FULL SCREEN. Great for meetings, classrooms, conferences, schools, anywhere :-
Stay On Top App - Download a Stopwatch and Countdown timer that stays in addition to all open windows.
Dates - Countdown to important dates and birthdays worldwide!
Download - Download the Online Stopwatch Application to your PC or MAC.
Timer - Set a Timer from 1 second to around a year! Big screen countdown
Gadgets - Add Online Stopwatch: iGoogle Gadgets, Gadgets, Vista Sidebar Gadget, Add for a Personal Homepage. Great:-
Large Stopwatch - Use the Stopwatch in FULL SCREEN. Great for meetings, classrooms, conferences, schools, anywhere :-
Dates - Countdown to important dates and birthdays all over the world!
Download - Download the Online Stopwatch Application to your PC or MAC.
Gadgets - Add Online Stopwatch: iGoogle Gadgets, Gadgets, Vista Sidebar Gadget, Add on your Personal Homepage. Great:-
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Posted by Cabe Atwell in Raspberry Pi Projects on Dec 27, 2013 8:07:00 AM New Year s Eve NYE is often fun, specifically when something fun happens on the zero time. Launching fireworks looks like it's the default reply to the calendar change. Having it do off just as the year concerns a close is vital. The person that may be often forced to light those wicks loses over to enjoying that moment. They need to be for the ready to complete whatever task is essential
This setup and tend to forget countdown timer that activates 10 relays to the last 10 seconds on the year. Like a switch, a relays can make on/off something that can be started/off. So, this project could just turn off all of the lights in a very house to get a dark and NYE, to blaring ten electric boat horns to the annoying party.
Do anything you want while using relays I chose to produce a single firework on the zero second. I chose this mainly to present a simple strategy for handling launching of fireworks remotely. I would like to incorporate, much safer too. No more light the wick and run consistently
Grab any time from the Raspberry Pi clock.
As the timer get more detailed zero it'll truncate what exactly is not necessary anymore, applying days. Then hours, lastly minutes. On the final 15 seconds the very last numbers will fill the screen.
On the very last 10 seconds from the countdown, the RPi will activate or deactivate 10 relays.
For my example Launch fireworks within the last second, wirelessly.
At the core from the project will be the Raspberry Pi Model B Rev 2. Between it plus the Sainsmart 8-relay board can be a set of Adafruit Logic Level Converters. The Raspberry Pi GPIO pins only output 3.3V data signals along with the relay board is looking for just a 5V possible ways to indicate a switch. The logic level converter handles that boost. You could create your own level converters using a 2N222 transistor as some resistors, but who's time to the?
From the relays board, I have bypassed one on the buttons around the JM70A Wireless Remote Control 4 Channel Kit. Why this sort of crude hack in the remote? I planned to put together a straightforward wireless setup. I had several wireless relays around my junk electronics, finally desired to put them to make use of. For this project, I only needed one wireless relay.
I simple soldered wires towards the either end in the JM70A button A. From there exists connected to the past relay within the SainSmart 8-relays board about the Normally Open terminals. When the relay board is switched, the remote will think its button A is now being pressed. That simple.
At the business enterprise end from the project could be the 4-relay board, part with the JM70A kit. This board has four relays that is certainly used. I only needed one. To the Normally Open NO terminals in the relay I will activate, I attaches wires that linked to two CR123 3V batter holders in series 6V total, then to a single lead connected with an Estes Model Rocket Igniter. The other lead connected back for the other NO connection for the relay.
When the relay is witched, 6V will dump over the Estes Rocket Igniter, which begins to burn. The Igniter is taped towards the fuse/wick from the Fireworks I want to produce the igniter burns. does the fuse.
You does not have to go wireless. Just use wires directly in the SainSmart relay board in your Igniters or anything you are activating. Keep under consideration, the longer the wire, a lot more resistance. You could attenuate important computer data signal. Test in advance of time.
I just desired to not lay wires down such as a WWII communications soldier. And. I needed to keep the Pi and parts safe on the burning materials.
Click to zoom in! Build at the own advised!
The Estes Model Rocket Igniters, those you find in model rocket kits, can be extremely delicate. Move it around a lot of, along with the part that burns will break. There are lots of sites that discuss building your personal igniters. However, I wanted something that's manufactured to figure but moreover, entirely on Amazon.
Be careful with handling these. Also, don't forget, they get burn to your bone hot, handle with caution.
For some people, NYE is often a cold day. Although cold electronics often are better, batteries will not. I had issues with some fireworks launch tests no longer working. I used a shop heat gun to warm them up before tests. Worked just like a charm.
Alternatively, insulating the batteries can be a good idea.
The JM70A, the two control fob plus the relay board needed 12V. The key fob experienced a battery holder, the relay would not. I bought an electric battery holder for any small 12V battery N type. The relay board could well be good for just a few tests prior to a battery wore out. To about battery issues, I connected a 12V wall power supply on the key fob. Also, it saves many batteries doing this!
Remember the fuse on fireworks give a long time for people to light and try to escape. So, in the event you set it for the zero mark, it can then take X period of time to burn down. To account just for this, I cut the fuse down quite a tad. Since I would not need to become near it to light the fireworks, I caused it to be as short as I could. Also, placing the output with an earlier time could time all this better. IE: If is takes 3 seconds to shed a fuse, move the output towards the relay for 3 seconds to visit.
Everything you have to compile is that come with this post. Download, compile, and hang up the relays.
To complete a test in the countdown, press Ctrl-T. Each time you do, it can get better the last 15 seconds.
Fireworks Roman Candles, etc
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Posted by Frederick Vandenbosch Dec 12, 2015 The Raspberry Pi Zero form factor, helps it be perfect for easy use in smaller project. Combined with internet connectivity, an exhibit and some style of input, maybe it's used to visualise virtually anything.
Using a Pi Zero, an I2C OLED display from Adafruit, a miniature wifi dongle, two push buttons and also a custom 3D printed enclosure, I attempted to generate a small device which often can sit on my own desk and report various things, like:
This could be easily expanded to show the weather, latest email received, tweets you're mentioned in, or latest discussions on element14. The choice is yours!
One button cycles throughout the different screens, another triggers actions depending around the active screen. For example, for the network settings screen, the button forces the Pi to reconnect for the network.
Check against eachother and tell me what you think!
Posted by Frederick Vandenbosch Dec 11, 2015 While holding it, I noticed one on the USB hubs I had, had the identical form factor because new Pi. So I combined both into a as small as is possible package.
The Pi is powered in the USB hub and also the USB OTG port is connected to your hub, providing 4 ports for connectivity allowing in order to connect
Posted by CharlesGantt Dec 4, 2015 Welcome back on the Trick or Trivia Blog. In this installment, I will showcase how I built the candy dispenser which will set near the tombstone. Unfortunately this part with the project didn't turn out as I had planned because I could not chose the type of bowls I wanted. I did were able to cobble something together that work well, and I should be able to build a better version for next Halloween.
My original idea was to work with faux concrete flower urns that typically might be found beside tombstones. I got the concept from some flower vases I saw in the local Hobby Lobby back July, but was struggling to find them again at any store I visited. So I improvised and bought two cheap Halloween Candy bowls, and hacked them into something that might work. While that is not by far the most refined solution, it worked well from the end.
Below you'll see a list from the hardware and tools familiar with build the candy dish that catches the dispensed candy.
Shims Made from Scrap Cardboard.
Before we obtain started within the candy dispenser, I wished to quickly provide you with how I installed the touch screen to the Tombstone. I spent lots of time mulling over the best way to mount the screen, and after many different mockups, I decided on just using hot glue to secure it. Unfortunately during time I gone to live in my brand new home, and any time I began working away at this a week later I found which the Raspberry Pi Screen had cracked after the heavy box ended up being stacked on top with the box the screen was covered by. So I were required to order a different screen and wait about it to arrive.
You might do not forget that when I carved the tombstone, I made a square patch at the top, fairly blank. This would be the place where I cutting out your recess with the screen.
To start I transferred the screen s metal housing dimensions to some piece of scrap cardboard. I then cut out of the waste cardboard, and checked the screen for fitment.
As you can view, the screen fit perfectly from the template.
The next thing is to pay for the flat part for the tombstone with painters tape. This will impart us with somewhere to trace out of the rectangle we should instead remove.
After eyeballing the position, I traced the rectangle into the painters tape. I tried to help keep this as centered as is possible, but inside end it had been off just a little, but no big problem as it can be a 100 yr old digital tombstone!
Next I use a razor knife to trim the tape away. This gives me a clean line to check out when cutting out of the foam.
Using a low priced box cutter I was in a position to remove the foam rectangle with little trouble. If I had to perform this again, I would manipulate a jig saw to take this out as being the cut would happen to be easier.
Finally, a shot from your back showing how I used hot glue to secure the screen in. I am withholding the shot in the screen installed on the front prior to the next installment of the series.
The heart and soul of the project was the touchscreen display, but we are able to not forget about the reward that any of us owe the youngsters who visit us on Halloween night. When I originally prototyped the candy dispensing system, I were built with a plan in mind that might utilize a faux flower urn and smaller candle dish to cover up the dispenser. The Dispenser was planned around that urn, and it is dimensions. Unfortunately I was struggle to find that style flower urn for sale if the time found buy it despite several being for the shelves of Hobby lobby just days before. I would not allow that to stop me though, and I improvised with two large candy bowls through the dollar store.
To start, I needed to locate a suitable bit of scrap wood. Fortunately I found this section of в thick hardboard all over from a classic cheap book shelf we'd planned to get rid of. I cut the right sized part of and heated up my glue gun.
While the glue gun was heating, I mocked the dispenser hopper up, determined some scrap foam to use as being a shim to work it at an angle. You can use cardboard as well as dry hot glue to improve the back from the hopper up.
With the angle set, I used a knife in order to an outline in the foam so I could eliminate the paper covering. I did this because I know from past experiences that hot glue won't stick to this surface wonderfully.
Then I simply cut from the black paper layer, and used my knife to rough it up somewhat for better glue adhesion.
I then added hot glue for the roughed up surface. The glue sticks I am using are viewed High Temp meaning they melt around 350f, and honestly they were a bit too hot for your foam I used, however they are all I had. In retrospect, I should purchased Low Temp glue sticks.
I then placed the foam on top with the glue. One in the bad reasons for using High Temp glue sticks is that you just will get burnt instantly if any squeezes out your sides and comes in contact with the finger. This is much less associated with an issue with Low Temp glue sticks. I buy these sticks with the 25lb box, so I offer an abundance ones.
Next I glued small foam strip down. This part was tricky because the high temp sticks are hot enough to melt this foam. I allow glue gun cool-down some before applying any glue.
For the following part, I been able to find the lowest temp glue stick inside my Girlfriend s craft room. I knew I would melt the foam using the high temp sticks. I should have removed the black paper here likewise but I got in a rush and forgot to cut against eachother until it would have been to late.
Finally I glued everything down and held pressure onto it until the glue cooled. It looks very messy here, but I did wash it up a lttle bit.
With the hopper secured in position, I was capable of mock within the servo placement. It took a couple of tries, but I finally were able to get the edge in the board trimmed down enough so which the plunger was capable of travel enough to eject the candy.
With the perfect placement found, I used my used my knife to make a hole how the servo could fit inside. Then I used hot glue to secure things.
With the candy dispenser assembly completed I managed to move on to modifying two bowls. Basically I cut a relief to the bottom with the black bowl, and also a similar relief in a side on top in the other bowl. I then used about 20 glue sticks to secure everything together.
I am not visiting much detail about this bowl design deliberately as I feel that this odds of an individual finding similar bowls is slim to none, then there is surely a better way to perform this. Here you can observe that I have placed the glue about one inch up for the purple bowl and allow it flow on top of the black bowl about a inch also. I did the same around the inside.
Here you can observe how I layered the glue within the inside on the two bowls.
One more shot in the inside. You can almost make the candy hopper.
And a last shot with the bowls pared together. You can understand the hopper inside big bowl, and also the candy feeds in to the smaller bowl. Both of these will probably be perched on the stand near the tombstone as well as the black bowl will use a jack-o-lantern cover as to conceal the dispenser.
That is likely to wrap this installment of Project: Trick or Trivia. Check back inside a few days for your next installment, where we bring everything together, and demo the device working. Until then, make sure to Hack The World, and Make Awesome!
Posted by biglesp Nov 21, 2015 With Christmas almost here it s time for the annual Element 14 Christmas Project. Last year we built a Santa Trap that used a Raspberry Pi and camera to photograph Santa while he delivers presents over the world.
For 2015 we're going to create an IoT Internet of Things Christmas tree that may accept commands via Twitter, so we could control our tree from afar.
A collection of Jumper cables Male to female, male to male
This project is compatible with all the new Raspberry Pi Zero Raspberry Pi Zero, enabling a genuinely low cost alternative that is usually easily embedded.
Firstly we should build the circuit for your Raspberry Pi. Firstly we shall connect our 74AHCT125 to some breadboard. Ensure how the pins are spread around over the central channel in the board. You may also have to bend the pins in order that they fit to the board, this may be done by gently pressing the chip against a great surface.
Now we go on to wiring inside the chip and with this please refer on the diagram for more info.
Attaching the female barrel jack adapter to our power source we will have two screw terminals, marked and -. Unscrew each terminal and fasten a length of wire or possibly a male to male jumper cable. Insert the wire into your rail of your respective breadboard, likewise together with the - wire. You will also employ a spare black wire for ones neopixel strip. This can be a GND that may also must be attached on your - rail. Attaching a wire from any of the Raspberry Pi ground pins for the - rail will complete all on the ground connections.
For now usually do not apply power in your neopixels and check all on the connections made before progressing.
Power your Raspberry Pi and boot to your Raspbian desktop. Firstly we will have to download and install several extra software systems and with this you will require an Internet connection when you proceed.
To update and install the software program open a terminal and type the subsequent, then press Enter.
With that complete we shall now download the rpiws281x Python library. In a terminal type
Next we shall compile the software program library by typing.
Our final install step to the ws281x library should be to setup and install the Python library. Type the subsequent.
Before we get into your project we should check that our hardware is working. Ensure that all on the connection for the 74AHCT125 chip, Raspberry Pi plus the power supply are correct before applying power towards the neopixels. Power increase neopixel power source, if you don't happen until we operate a test. In the Raspberry Pi terminal navigate for the examples directory from the Python directory.
Inside the directory can be a file called and we will must edit it before testing. Type the next to edit.
Change this to reflect the volume of neopixels that you simply have, we now have 120 in this 2 metre string. Looking further around the text we could see
This ensures that every neopixel is going to be at full brightness and definately will draw lots of current, so lets reduce that to 1/8th on the power by changing it.
Save your changes by pressing CTRL O, press Enter, and after that exit by pressing CTRL X
With modifications made type the next to test your neopixels.
Right you now should be dazzled by a space of colors and animations through the neopixels. When you might be happy that things are working, press CTRL C to prevent the code.
Our last task before continuing is usually to install the tweepy library for Python. Tweepy is usually a library that allows Python to utilize the Twitter API. To install open a terminal and type.
Our next thing is to make a Twitter app that could enable our project to speak with Twitter. To accomplish this go to /and get access.
Once signed in you will notice a Create New App button inside top right. Click into it and you will note the application screen.
Fill within the name of your respective application plus a description. You can utilize an URL for that website, but when you use a site, use it in there. You can leave the callback URL blank. Lastly you will must agree on the terms and conditions before continuing.
You will see a screen, displaying your app, all were need out of this screen is our API keys, which can be secret so don t share them out. Click on manage keys and access tokens and you will likely be taken to a fresh screen.
You can already view your API Key and API Secret but we likewise require an access token. Scroll on the page and you will notice the relevant section. Click on Create my access token. The page will update showing your access token, again save this information secret.
Make a note within your API keys and Access tokens when we will need them later.
So now you can get down to hacking our IoTree groan into life. For this project you should use any text editor you'd like but we should be using IDLE for Python 2, which using the latest launch of Raspbian Jessie, can access the GPIO pins directly without sudo access.
As always we start with importing the libraries that could enable our project.
The main libraries are tweepy for that Twitter API, neopixel for the neopixels and time which is utilized to control the pace with the project.
Next we make a series of variables to hold the API keys and Access Tokens that any of us created earlier.
We now reuse some on the code on the file we tested earlier. Again we affect the configuration to match the quantity of LED inside our neopixel strip and hang up the brightness in order that we tend not to exceed the max current available from the power supply.
We will also be reusing large wipe function from your example to create a incremental change, pixel by pixel on the strip.
Next we develop a class to listen on the stream of tweets on Twitter and act accordingly.
We create an conditional statement that can check to see if a person of three conditions does work. These conditions are the words E14XmasProject and then a color. If this can be present next the color is going to be passed to your colorwipe function we created earlier. So if we percieve E14XmasProject red the colorWipe function is told to make use of 255, 0, 0, which can be red within the RGB color standards.
Next we produce a function to capture any error messages and display them from the Python shell.
For our penultimate a part of code we login to Twitter using our API key and Access Tokens before creating our neopixels ready to be used via the function.
Our last part of code is familiar with search Twitter for hashtag E14XmasProject which will trigger the neopixels to improve color. Of course chances are you'll wish to alter your hashtag to something more personal, almost like we all have a similar hashtag then everyone s IoTree will probably be changed at a time globally!
So together with the code complete, keep your project and click on Run Run Module to begin with. Nothing will happen and soon you send a tweet with the hashtag and color. So employing your cell phone, tablet or computer send a tweet plus your neopixels should activate and change for the color your specified.
So there we now have it, we've got created our first IoTree device.
Posted by pettitda Nov 16, 2015 Last time I had determined which the long ribbon cable would have been to long to fit to the box. So, I ordered a GPIO header with longer pins with the sense hat along with a smaller ribbon cable having a 40 pin connector using one end plus a 26 pin header around the other to plug in the PermaProto board.
In order to create more room for your board as well as the connector stack, I removed these screw terminal connector where I had planned for connecting the wires on the Fog machine remote.
Using double sided tape, I secured the PermaProto to your bottom from the enclosure. Then I secured the AC relay for the side wall near the spot that the Fog machine cable will enter the lamp.
Next, I installed the fog machine cable and wired the relay board into it. I secured the relay board to your opposite side wall with the enclosure from your AC relay with an increase of double sided tape.
I installed the neopixel ring about the outside with the box and used hot glue to secure the ring set up.
Then I wired the neopixel wires for the three screw terminal connector.
Next, I drilled holes from the enclosure top and secured the Raspberry Pi into it using 4-40 machine screws and nuts.
Youll observe that one screw hole was just a little off, so I was only capable of install three from the screws.
I installed the modern GPIO header for the sense-hat and plugged it in to the Raspberry Pi, then plugged the modern ribbon cable on the pins which extended with the sense-hat board.
I closed everything up and attempted to connect to your Pi from my laptop. Then I realized the WiPi hasn't been installed. So, I were required to cut a hole within the side wall on the enclosure with the WiPi to keep through.
I made the hole the place that the fog machine cable enters this area slightly larger in order that I could run the Pi power cable plus the speaker cable through the identical hole.
Now, the Foginator 2000 is assembled and prepared to test. At now I know all with the parts work because Ive tested them individually. Since the audio amplifier board that I built is dead the leading IC is dead, I decided to utilize an old amplified speaker from the PC. All in all, it appears pretty good.
However when I tested it, I found that if your PWM is running there is a number of noise around the audio line. I thought this might be due for the neo-pixel supply voltage being fed from your Raspberry Pi. So, I disconnected it and ran the neo-pixel ring and also the voltage translator chip off from a separate strength. Unfortunately, which had no effect. Looking on the PWM signal on the oscilloscope, I realized that theres a lot of ringing around the edges. Even together with the Raspberry Pi disconnected in the rest in the box, the noise still rides within the audio in the event the PWM is active. I did somewhat research plus it looks like theres a strength setting about the GPIO outputs within the Raspberry Pi. So, maybe if I lower the strength, that can reduce the ringing. I will write more once I figure out how to perform that.
Other than, that everything appears to operate. The fog machine switches on if your relay closes and creates three seconds in fog. When the PWM isn't running the audio is crisp and clear and plenty loud. The PIR sensor senses motion throughout the hole inside side wall okay and once the speaker is powered down, the neo-pixel displays a rotating rainbow if your PWM is started up. So, I am really near having a working system. All I need to complete is merge all on the code together and Ill be set for next Halloween ;-.
Posted by pettitda Nov 10, 2015 I finished up my last article by installing the relay board on my small PermaProto board.
Next, I needed to collect the level shifter board. I say assemble, but all thats required would be to solder misused row headers towards the board.
Heres what it's like using the connectors added.
I went ahead and soldered the amount shifter board on towards the PermaProto. If I were thinking ahead I wouldnt have placed it so close on the connector. I would later learn that my cable not fit about the board and I would should order some other cable. Planning in the hobby project is definitely as crucial as it is inside a work project!
I really wished to get the neo-pixels working while using RPi 2. It didnt appear to be it really should be that hard. So, I wired inside the neo-pixel ring with wires in order to connect to my Raspberry Pi over the level shifter.
I downloaded the Raspberry Pi 2 branch of Jeremy Garffs rpiws2811 library.
Next, I began to organize the enclosure I purchased due to this project. The provided enclosure were to small because I wanted the RPi to get inside the therapy lamp. I cut a notch a single end on the enclosure to adjust to the over-molded cable that has been originally inside fog machine remote. I crimped solder-less lugs for the cables wires in order in order to connect up to an AC relay coil. Then I soldered by using an extra wire to go to your relay boards contacts for switching the fog machine don / doff.
I got such a relay with the AC coil that I would use with my fog machine given it uses AC to light the indicator lamp.
I decided to work with double sided tape to mount it within the enclosure.
Then I added a 10k Ohm pull-up resistor to a few.3V within the PermaProto board. This will permit me make use of the relay to exchange a GPIO input around the RPi.
Next, I drilled a hole inside the side with the enclosure permitting the PIR sensor to view the outside world.
I thought it will be cool in the event the neo-pixel ring surrounded the opening to the PIR sensor. So, I drilled holes on each side with the opening to perform the wires.
I tested the fit with the PermaProto inside enclosure. Everything was looking great at now. Youll notice here that I added wires with solder-less lugs to connect towards the AC relay contacts.
I such as way situations are looking.
However, when I visited add inside RPi/Sense-Hat/cable, there just wasnt enough room.
At here Ive decided to look back towards the idea of while using the header with extra long pins in order to connect the sense-hat for the raspberry pi. I ordered the connector and also a cable which down-grades the 40 pin RPi 2 connector to your original 26 pins. Hopefully, I are going to be able to get in touch this cable on top in the sense-hat to operate over for the PermaProto. So, now Im expecting parts,
Posted by jtoccidental Nov 7, 2015 Transportation is the central part of our way of life especially for students. Going from point A to suggest B without the hassle is often a must. However, in case you are in a university which includes over 66, 000 students spanning across five different campuses 2, 681 acres of land, there would definitely be issues specifically gets hotter comes to scheduling. Having a PDF copy in the bus schedules just isn't enough to know in the event the bus is arriving since there would often be issues like traffic or mechanical failure because bus goes along its route.
Technology has become trying to assist alleviate this matter by providing real-time updates on in the event the bus could well be arriving. Buses are actually equipped with GPS systems that send data with a server that computes with the time a bus reaches a stop. You can check these times for the internet, using an app, or over a LED matrix screen for the bus stop. This technology gives convenience to students since it tells in the event the route is active and what time will another bus arrive.
Even so, the technology isn't perfect. There could well be times which the algorithm that computes some time of arrival make errors. You relax when you think your bus is on its way in 12 minutes, then you definately turn around along with the screen jumps to Arriving by 50 percent minutes. Having the device intelligently compute for your schedule can be good whether or not this done its made more reliable. Thus, students make mobile apps that merely displays the location with the bus in real-time. No computations, no fancy algorithms, just can help you know the location where the bus is and when its moving fast or slow.
This is nice, however, many bus stops usually do not have internet connection for students. Also, suppose your phones ran from juice or you wish to conserve battery on your own phone. This is why I am proposing a project which solves these problems. With the Raspberry Pi 2 and 7 touchscreen, an android interface is usually developed so how the bus real-time tracking app might be installed. This device could be placed inside the bus stops along together with the LED screens that post the schedules. They curently have access to your internet so obtaining the Pi 2 connected is just not an issue for stops without wireless connectivity. This device are going to be called Where R U? talking about RU as Rutgers University, my school.
This project is at line together with the Halloween Raspberry Pi Build-a-long which I got the main element materials Raspberry pi 2 and touchscreen just for this build.
LEDs, Resistors, Capacitors
Not each of the parts provided are going to be used for your build.
It is my first time to work with a Raspberry Pi 2 since my last device would have been a Raspberry Pi B. This was definitely more powerful because it now features a 900 MHz Broadcom BCM2836 ARM v7 quad core processor contrary to Bs single core 700 MHz Broadcom BCM2835 ARMv6. This new version presently has the ability to support Windows 10 IoT which I will fiddle around during my next builds. Instead of installing the common Raspberry Pi OS, I are going to be searching to get a means to set up an Android OS for your device. This causes it to be much simpler to set up the real-time tracking application for the device. More for the details of this around my next post.
Although touchscreen technology implementations for your Pi is not a brand new thing, having Raspberry Pi have a brand of touchscreen display screen ensures maximum compatibility. I tried using third part screens before in certain of my builds within the Raspberry Pi and Arduino plus it was definitely an issue. You have to know its model number plus the microcontroller or microprocessor you're using it on. Sometimes, this fabric may not work efficiently together which makes slideshow really big gamble. Now, with RPi having its 7 touchscreen display, makers would now take over the convenience and assurance that it can definitely work with your Raspberry Pi device. I is going to be working on the way to make a neat casing for these particular two components in order that it can withstand the sun and rain. More about the design will probably be discussed during my next posts.
1. Installing the Android OS
2. Installing the real-time bus location app
3. Interfacing the Touch Screen
4. Designing the Enclosure
Each milestone could be discussed inside my future posts. Right now, I am already done installing the Android OS and I am currently from the process of testing it. The update would hopefully be up real soon when I address any issues I encounter.
Thank you to read and keep making!
Posted by Nov 6, 2015 OpenCV is definitely an amazing part of software plus the newer Pis are receiving the ability to run realtime image processing tasks, like face detection.
However, OpenCv will not be that user-friendly, Lets make an attempt to simplify it just a little. Most detection scripts need accompanying files that incorporate the information to name what we're searching for within the image we merely captured. Luckily OpenCv comes pre set with some of these Haar-Cascaded The files that tell open cv what to consider, they may be found in:
for info on what a HaarCascade is or want to develop your own to spot a fish or banana? see:
You will get many more using a quick google and paste them to the above folder.
So how should we use these to detect faces, run from the terminal:
To run the one inside video,
paste the code below in a empty text file saved as, right click and select any can execute, then:
if you need to exit, click about the video window and press esc on keyboard
Dont really know what this bit does, nevertheless it works
ret, frame
ret, frame
ret, frame
ret, frame
ret, frame
res frame, None, fx0.5, fy0.5, interpolation AREA
gray frame, BGR2GRAY
Finding Faces, changing the values for size faces in camera view
When things are done, release the capture
Posted by Nov 6, 2015 The skull is controlled by three servos creating three examples of freedom, in addition, it has Leds inside eyes to feature a dramatic effect view the later blogs
Posted by cmelement14 Nov 2, 2015 Unfortunately I couldnt finish the project before Halloween because I moved recently and didnt bring a working system with me. However, I continue the build and blogs. Different from my last blog Step by Step Build Trick or Trivia Halloween Candy Dispenser 4 - LED blink test, GUI Interface, today I will blog the build of audio amplifier.
Usually the sequence when I manually solder components comes from low profile parts to seen parts. To receive a good sense from the soldering sequence, I temporarily placed all parts for the board without soldering.
Starting from low profile parts including resistor, diode and ceramic capacitors. Pay attention to your diodes polarity.
Soldering period of time profile parts and cut their extra leads.
Then solder the terminals plus the amplifier IC. Pay attention the orientation on the IC.
Next, solder the quantity control rotary switch.
Next solder three elec. capacitors. Pay attention to their polarity.
Finally, solder the LED. Pay attention for the LED polarity.
The back side from the completed board.
Posted by pettitda Nov 2, 2015 As I went about thinking on tips on how to assemble the circuitry together to generate a presentable project, I wasnt too happy using the idea of utilizing the extended pin header for attaching the sensor board. However, I found which the GPIO connector around the Pi will happily take a well used computer disk cable. Luckily, I had one of those hanging around.
The only gotcha using this type of technique is which the connector rows finish up swapped around should you connect the sensor board with all the connector mounted mainly because it comes originally. However, apparently the creators thought with this. The connector that comes together with the sensor board might be turned around and installed around the top side with the board with no soldering! In this case, the pins result in the right connections that has a simple male-male pin header much like the one seen off for the right inside picture above.
To make things organized and presentable, I decided to make use of an Adafruit PermaProto board for that original Raspberry Pi that I had laying around in. It doesnt enable connecting any with the higher numbered pins, but luckily all I need are included.
Working using what I had in front of you, I installed the leftover single row male pin header to protect the needed pins. To make things foolproof, I soldered the PIR sensor on top of the proto board with all the idea of drilling a hole inside the side in the enclosure to permit the PIR to peak through. To make things fit inside desired enclosure, I cut some rows off one end on the proto board.
I installed a screw-down type connector about the proto board to handle the connections while using fog machine handheld remote control and added wire to attach the PIR sensor towards the Raspberry Pi header.
Finally, I soldered for the relay board that I built before. At now Im wishing I had just waited and installed the relay directly within the main proto board. However, I might as well choose what I previously.
In the following installment, I will finish in the build from the Foginator 2000.
Posted by jkutzsch Nov 2, 2015 Sadly after cleaning, and testing and checking everything with my old foginator, it started having intermittent problems. Sometimes it works, sometimes, nothing.
Not having plenty of time to get a whole new one I changed over the concept of a relay exclusively for firing the Foginator and built a power outlet Relay within a 4 gang box comparable to /8cPK8lh6oLI, I had seen this video while looking forward to parts and liked the reasoning of being competent to remotely power the relay also as keeping the PIR sensor flip the relay. Plus being able to make use of the box to wrap everything up inside would be a nice tie in.
Hating the idea with the Foginator not being consistent I put in place 2 masked heads efficient at movement, 2 masked heads static, as well as a cool Electric Plasma Glass Skull head.
All 4 masked heads are illuminated from inside by solar led then one is lit from below by modified solar led that I swapped a UV led into.
The 2 moving heads are supplied mobility by using oscillating fans and attaching the heads for the top with drop cloths within the front to billow if your fan spins up as well as the head unit moves. Side note, this drop cloth has not been UV reflective, next season test before assuming.:-
As you may see inside the above picture Static is actually cool, but inside bottom video the creepiness went WAY up because PIR was activated and things started moving!
I must admit I had been taking care of this guy for just a bit before adding it to the RPi display. Had to maintain busy while expecting parts and pieces ahead in!
This was going to become a static display using the coolness for being how the recessed eyes are glowing and can follow you when you move past. But after a lttle bit of creative thought the theory of working it over a standing oscillating fan seemed to be a lot more creepy as it would only move if your PIR sensor was activated it. The billowing plastic below and UV led were extra steps for the overall feel.
This head was based using a glow from the dark trick or treat pail and was illuminated by the Solar LED in the top and unseen over these pictures a Solar UV LED underneath. The pail failed to illuminate close to as well as being the balloons I tried within the others. But it had been helpful for me to be capable of put inside the recessed eyes for that following.
Once I chosen to move forward together with the full display I thought developing a couple of non-moving simple heads can be nice. These are on white balloons illuminated from the inside of by solar LEDs so always lit when dark.
This was the other moving head, Not as complex as the opposite but still with sufficient creepy going without running shoes that my children didnt want to visit near the trolls.:-
Also based using a white balloon, illuminated from inside by Solar LED. The wire was needed to maintain it towards the fan and hasn't been obvious from farther away.
Final implementation in Video Format!
This was a wonderful project to operate on and I want to present a huge THANK YOU to Element14 for letting me participate!
Very eager to perform more, and cant wait to view how all the others did because of their projects. The aspect of limited timeline helped the creative process!
Posted by severian Nov 1, 2015 It all works nicely, as with this afternoon. I simplified the audio because I would not get my Raspberry Pi audio cable ready. With several Raspberry Pi B and newer that are actually sold, I wonder why someone isn't going to build audio cables. Ideally, it will be a short cable together with the weird Raspberry Pi trrs connector during one end as well as a female 3.5 stereo audio jack around the other end. Then, you might plug cheap computer speakers in. I mount Raspberry Pis within the back of LCD monitors. These pften employ a 3.5mm stereo jack internal. Oh, well.
So, I used the network to learn the audio. When the neopixel display has lights, a command is distributed through ssh to some desktop Linux machine to experiment with the sound file Charles Gantt calls 3 I much like the effect of computer coming in the next room. This project continues to be fun and I expect starting a whole new one Id like to produce a movement tracker while using the accelerometer, magnetometer, and gyroscope within the Sense Hat. I have messed around with those a tad and I see I need to perform some research on smoothing that data to produce it useful. Everyone employ a happy All Saints DayNov 1.
Posted by dwinhold Nov 1, 2015 Well, halloween is defined as over plus it was a successful letdown. It poured rain tonight, we'd about 6 kids. The kids liked the candy dispenser but loved the Wishing Hell. The dispencer was required to be setup within our small doorway, the Wishing Hell was mostly covered and sitting outside inside the rain. The kids said itrrrs this that brought them to the home, but due for the rain they didnt desire to all try the dispencer. The main reason with this challenge is with the kids to get fun which managed to make it successful.
We would like to thank every one of the sponsers, Element14 and everyone involved for producing this possible,
Posted by screamingtiger Oct 31, 2015 Here can be a demonstration of my final product. I will probably be making another post after Halloween to travel over the last code.
Its outside prepared to annoy people!
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element14 would be the first network specifically for engineers. Connect together with your peers and obtain expert answers for your questions.
2009-2015 Premier Farnell plc. All Rights Reserved.
Premier Farnell plc, registered in England and Wales no 00876412, registered office: Farnell House, Forge Lane, Leeds LS12 2NE
element14 Software Version: 6.0.5.0, revision: f76dfc4
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Posted by dgashby Dec 31, 2013 My family and I wife plus two children are away travelling the South Island of New Zealand for summer holiday. At least one on the places we have been staying hasnt upgraded their TV to search digital, pet owners usually placed their Sky decoder with him or her. With our car already loaded for the gunwales using a double buggy, two kids child car seats, buckets and spades with the beach, fishing rods, a small variety of christmas toys, and enough clothes to pay four seasons, packing anything extra was out from the question.
The plan were to take the Raspberry Pi Media Centre loaded with RaspBMC and my laptop which had been going on holiday too. I had loaded up ISO images at a few on the kids favourite legimately purchased DVDs likewise as one or two for your grown-ups. The Pi could possibly be hooked up on the TV, and after having a long day on the beach your kids could enjoy a tad of The Wiggles or Hi 5 while winding down for your day. True, I could have just used VLC or something similar within the laptop, though the laptop cant beat a 48 display when several everyone is watching, and curious little fingers are kept well clear of my laptop!:- A dose of research has revealed that playing ISO images isn't straight forward with XBMC but there has become quite a little of work done for this recently the ones seem being getting better milage using the built in player. I also realised I was likely to need an MPEG2 codec licsense for getting this working. I figured there was more likely to be somewhat of tweaking involved to acquire all in this working successfully.
The media center even offers a whole host of other options using the myriad of add-on plugins. As an enormous fan of NASA TV and Youtube, there was plenty of possibilities open there. And if I had time then I may additionally try and acquire the MythTV backend up and running on my small laptop having a USB DVB-T tuner and ultizing RaspBMC because the front end. Finally, while using addition associated with an Element 14 WiPi there became a possibility of starting up directly to my iPhones wireless hotspot.
As it happens NZ Customs were overloaded together with the extra Christmas post and although dispatched promptly with the team at Element 14, the Rasperry Pi Media Center kit hadnt arrived by any time we had cleaned up the many leftovers from Christmas Day, loaded in the car, thus hitting the road for sunny Nelson. Having prepared just for this possibility, I already experienced a spare Pi boating, and downloading and installing RaspBMC image was quite strait forward. I don't possess the mini keyboard and trackpad, and the Pi Control and Display which to get honest I havent identified how Im planning to integrate that yet. The keyboard is going to be dearly missed though as already using a wireless mouse with limited range for your initial install and configuration has tested my patience a lot more than my 11 month old sons glee in fiddling using the controls about the home theatre. He cant walk and the man cant talk but he sure knows tips on how to wind up his old man! So all is just not lost and my review might be in two parts, the 1st related to the experience with all the cut-down backup version while travelling plus the second related on the full blown kit even as return home and organise to the courier to redeliver.
Posted by Cabe Atwell Dec 27, 2013 New Year s Eve NYE is definitely fun, specifically when something fun happens on the zero time. Launching fireworks is very much the default respond to the calendar change. Having it do off the same manner the year pertains to a close is the vital thing. The person that's often necessary to light those wicks loses over to enjoying that moment. They need to be for the ready to perform whatever task should be used
This setup and tend to forget countdown timer that activates 10 relays with the last 10 seconds from the year. Like a switch, a relays can change on/off something that can be fired up/off. So, this project could just turn off the many lights inside a house for any dark and personal NYE, to blaring ten electric boat horns for that annoying party.
Do anything you want with all the relays I chose to produce a single firework in the zero second. I chose this mainly to provide a simple strategy for handling launching of fireworks remotely. I would like to incorporate, much safer too. No more light the wick and run continually
Grab any time from the Raspberry Pi clock.
As the timer get more detailed zero it can truncate what's not necessary anymore, applying days. Then hours, and lastly minutes. On the final 15 seconds the very last numbers will fill the screen.
On the very last 10 seconds from the countdown, the RPi will activate or deactivate 10 relays.
For my example Launch fireworks about the last second, wirelessly.
At the core on the project would be the Raspberry Pi Model B Rev 2. Between it and also the Sainsmart 8-relay board is usually a set of Adafruit Logic Level Converters. The Raspberry Pi GPIO pins only output 3.3V data signals plus the relay board is looking to get a 5V possible ways to indicate a switch. The logic level converter handles that boost. You could create your own level converters which has a 2N222 transistor as some resistors, but who's time for your?
From the relays board, I have bypassed one with the buttons within the JM70A Wireless Remote Control 4 Channel Kit. Why this kind of crude hack on the remote? I planned to put together an easy wireless setup. I had a number of wireless relays within my junk electronics, finally needed to put them to utilize. For this project, I only needed one wireless relay.
I simple soldered wires towards the either end from the JM70A button A. From there exists connected to a final relay within the SainSmart 8-relays board for the Normally Open terminals. When the relay board is switched, the remote will think its button A has been pressed. That simple.
At this company end on the project could be the 4-relay board, part on the JM70A kit. This board has four relays that is certainly used. I only needed one. To the Normally Open NO terminals in the relay I will activate, I attaches wires that linked to two CR123 3V batter holders in series 6V total, then to 1 lead of the Estes Model Rocket Igniter. The other lead connected back on the other NO connection about the relay.
When the relay is witched, 6V will dump over the Estes Rocket Igniter, which actually starts to burn. The Igniter is taped to your fuse/wick on the Fireworks I want to produce the igniter burns. does the fuse.
You need not go wireless. Just use wires directly in the SainSmart relay board for a Igniters or whatever you decide and are activating. Keep planned, the longer the wire, the greater resistance. You could attenuate your details signal. Test in front of time.
I just desired to not lay wires down such as a WWII communications soldier. And. I planned to keep the Pi and parts safe on the burning materials.
Click to zoom in! Build your own advised!
The Estes Model Rocket Igniters, the approaches you find in model rocket kits, are incredibly delicate. Move it around an excessive amount, as well as the part that burns will break. There are an abundance of sites that mention building your personal igniters. However, I wanted something which is manufactured to function but more to the point, on Amazon.
Be careful with handling these. Also, don't forget, they get burn on the bone hot, handle with caution.
For us, NYE can be a cold day. Although cold electronics often be more effective, batteries usually do not. I had downside to some fireworks launch tests bust. I used a shop heat gun to warm them up before tests. Worked just like a charm.
Alternatively, insulating the batteries is often a good idea.
The JM70A, their control fob plus the relay board needed 12V. The key fob a battery holder, the relay failed to. I bought a cell holder for the small 12V battery N type. The relay board could well be good for the few tests prior to battery wore out. To about battery issues, I connected a 12V wall power supply on the key fob. Also, it saves lots of batteries doing this!
Remember that this fuse on fireworks give time for people to light and head for the hills. So, should you set it in the zero mark, it'll then take X length of time to burn down. To account because of this, I cut the fuse down quite a tad. Since I wouldn't need to get near it to light the fireworks, I got as short as I could. Also, placing the output with an earlier time could time all of it better. IE: If is takes 3 seconds of burning a fuse, move the output for the relay for 3 seconds to travel.
Everything you'll want to compile is mounted on this post. Download, compile, and hang up the relays.
To execute a test with the countdown, press Ctrl-T. Each time you do, it'll get much better the last 15 seconds.
Fireworks Roman Candles, etc
PRE PROGRAMMED, MICROSD, 8GB, RASPBERRY PI
BREADBOARD, SOLDERLESS, 400 TIE POINTS
BUDGET PACK, RASPBERRY PI Mostly unused, simply for parts
Magnets, wire, wire nuts, solder,
Anything that may be turned on with or as being a switch.
Posted by howroyd Dec 20, 2013 The latest update in my project; while using the raspberryPi to be a controller to get a hydrogen fuel cell with all the intent on powering an isolated controlled plane.
Hope you get the video intriguing and inspiring, if that's the case please click LIKE !
Posted by shabaz Dec 14, 2013 The Sleepy Pi is usually a board produced not just a million miles from my home town, also it is built to extend the Raspberry Pi RPI capabilities. After having examined it, in conclusion is which the board is fantastic which has a rich number of functionality and intensely well-designed, and it also will provide tremendous value for projects with all the types of requirements down the page.
1. The ability to operate the RPI from an electric battery
2. The ability to operate the RPI intermittently according to events or time, perhaps over days/months coming from a remote location
3. Interface to hardware and run microcontroller code
4. Use existing Arduino compatible boards
5. The ability and keep time with out a time server around the Internet
It reveals some unique opportunities. For example you can shut along the RPI, collect data utilizing the far lower power in-built microcontroller about the Sleepy Pi, and periodically wake inside the RPI and send the data to some server. The RPI could run for days/weeks/months similar to this at an online location.
1. Provide battery secured clock it features a socket to get a watch type cell
2. Provide efficient, regulated power for the RPI there can be a built-in DC-DC converter along with a DC barrel socket or make use of existing strength there is usually a USB socket with the
3. Allow the RPI for being put with a deep sleep power off and awakened at certain defined times or every time a particular event analog or digital input occurs
4. Allows external hardware for a switched strength, in order that it may be put to rest too
Owing to its design, they have some very attractive additional advantages:
1. Arduino compatible boards may be plugged in number one, for extending usefulness
2. There can be an on-board Atmel AVR microcontroller on in the world s most in-demand microcontrollers that allows for some relatively top speed interfacing to hardware without worrying about varying latency that Linux would incur
3. Decent area for prototyping saves yet another board
4. Built-in ADC from the AVR chip in order to connect to analog sensors two 10-bit analog channels
5. Additional peripherals available within the AVR chip, like PWM for controlling analog devices and for light dimming/motor control requires additional circuitry
There are lots of bad and good boards available, this falls from the extremely good category.
The design is basically nice their email list of good points seems endless: sensibly, it is usually a rectangular board without strange cut-outs which save little space and wouldn t let the PCB to adjust to many cases anyway therefore it allows for the usable prototyping area which can be really nice. There is space for screw terminals and Arduino headers. All connections are labelled.
Many connectors are given, so you need to use the board as you'll want. The existing RPI 26-pin connector isn't totally consumed and lost; there can be an inline header to ensure additional boards could the theory is that become part on the sandwich.
The board is securely fastened for the RPI using hex spacers you'll need a 2.5mm hex driver for your supplied bolts. As a design suggestion, perhaps a lot more holes about the Sleepy Pi can be good, in order that it could be bolted to a case. Extra holes could be hard to implement for the reason that board is really packed. A good workaround is make use of hex spacers with male thread using one end, so it is often a very minor point.
It is good that decent hex bolts are given this controls the number of space the top consumes throughout the board and insulating washers with the paranoid much like me. I m really struggling to identify a bad point around the Sleepy Pi.
I d suggest one additional hole, to ensure it can finally fix the RPI weakness of two holes, since a complete of three holes enables it to firmly be fixed with a surface.
As another suggestion, perhaps a number of very small holes near to the battery, making sure that it might be tied down if desired and never vibrate/drop out people may utilize Sleepy Pi in most extreme conditions, especially given it is around the underside with the board.
As far as I will easily notice, the board will not foul up any existing connector for the RPI, like the camera connector.
In normal expected use, no additional hardware is essential and you are able to run Arduino code directly around the Sleepy Pi.
If required, there is really a 6-pin Atmel AVR header for the external programmer. This allows you running code written without Arduino support too.
Note that as much as I can inform, the board could in principle even supply independently in the RPI. So, should you happen to need an AVR microcontroller and RTC and DC-DC supply to power your electronic circuit, than the board may be useful with the purpose too.
If you don t wish to visit Arduino-mode and desire to program the AVR yourself, then the programmer is obtainable for under 2030 Olimex AVR-ISP-MK2 from Farnel l/Newark and it also will connect directly on the Sleepy Pi. I ve not worn the extender, but it truly is worth a go since the Atmel version AVR-ISP 2 is often a little tricky sometimes to line up with Windows 7.
The AVR can be a great summary of microcontrollers and has now so many uses and existing code snippets available all in the Internet.
Looking for the schematic, all of it looks good decent protection within the power inputs, good power control using MOSFETs with protection too, unlike some RPI power control designs involving relays, as well as the design looks an good quality a couple of tantalum, and mainly ceramic caps everywhere as expected due to this type of design and decent modern component selection everywhere.
This will be the type of design someone would do on their own and be proud from the result, instead of a design intended on the market at a adjusted price point having a compromised quality.
In the spirit of open source, the schematic is accessible and any code is on Github. This can be a really important because many RPI boards are suitable for educational use the creators hide the structure maybe they must be named and shamed! because so much is usually learned from looking in the design detail.
The prototyping area is with the round isolated rings variety, that is amongst essentially the most useful it may be used for through-hole parts but in addition for soldering up surface-mount devices sometimes and joined with thin bare wire.
It isn't any surprise should you ve look at the above - this is undoubtedly an impressive board. It is attractive and set with features. The cost may look high 36.99 including VAT nonetheless it does that which you'd previously have needed several boards to perform, and good parts charge a small fee - the look is of an incredibly high quality.
Posted by shabaz Dec 12, 2013 This was an enjoyable project to try to generate some flashing lights. Of course, it necessary to be a lttle bit more complex than that so a Raspberry Pi was useful for Internet connectivity, and many analog circuitry was accustomed to generate multiple PWM outputs drive an automobile strings of lamps. Everything is usually dimmed or particular patterns selected from any browser. For a holiday look, the lamps were enclosed in star-shaped laser-cut acrylic. All the steps are detailed here when you wish to build something similar.
The controller board was integrated two evenings after work, as well as the strings of lamps can take a number of hours to collect; which means you could be described as a weekend project.
Even should you ve have already got your holiday lights arranged nowadays, this post could be useful to the following information:
The source code can also be useful in the event you have other requirements for controlling or retrieving status information from software or hardware using a internet browser.
The project uses lv lighting for safety and hardware PWM to greatly simplify the software program. The software is simplified further with the use of JavaScript because main programming language; your entire project occupies just three small files.
The plastic parts are possible from most laser cutting services; however in case you contact Problemchild he has the look files and may supply a really good quote of those shapes in a variety of translucent colors. The plastic shapes in the following paragraphs used John s laser cutting service.
The diagram here shows how all this works. The user controls the full thing coming from a web browser. The controller board powers four channels of lighting. The light strings can total 12V or 24V for flexibility and may be powered using a small mains adapter. These low voltages mean how the project is protected.
The project here used 5V lamps and chained five of these in series for each and every channel, totalling 20 lamps run from 24V. It can be possible they are driving lamps in parallel if desired, if longer lengths of lighting have to be driven.
The project is usually split into two halves; Part of it really is software, and part of it really is in hardware. You can skip the design and style descriptions below and go straight towards the build if desired.
The software needs to accomplish a few things; serve up and handle website interaction, implement a lighting patterns using some type of timer for animation, and to push some with the pins within the RPI general purpose I/O pins to regulate the hardware that can drive the lights.
There are lots of ways to achieve these tasks; in this instance, a software platform called was predominantly used thanks Drew Fustini. It allows most with the software to get written in JavaScript, and in addition eliminates the have to install a heavy web server for example Apache, must be lightweight web server can be obtained for It lessens the need to utilize another programming language; the code which will be written to run for the RPI will be from the same language since the software that could run inside the web browser as coded within the HTML file.
Note that a really tiny little bit of software is coded in C; that dose of code will be the interface to GPIO.
To summarise, just three files are essential; the program designed in JavaScript, the HTML file plus the C program that can write for the controller board over GPIO. These three files are attached inside zip file for the end with this post.
The small C program is referred to as dac predictably it is utilized to control a DAC within the controller board which adjusts the channel brightness as is going to be seen later. The program could be executed on the command line using:
the location where the first parameter corresponds to some channel between 1 and 4, as well as the second parameter sets the brightness value between 0 and 255. In our case, this program software directly calls the dac program.
The diagram here shows a graphic view on the software components that could be running inside RPI. The three software files are shown in green JavaScript file, blue file and red the dac.c program. It is all fairly self-explanatory should you view and compare it together with the code.
There a wide range of ways to build PWM; the look here works on the 555 timer chip to generate a fixed-frequency sawtooth waveform that's continually in comparison with an adjustable voltage at a DAC. Whenever this DAC adjustable voltage exceeds the sawtooth level, the string of lamps is switched on having a MOSFET. By using quad DAC and quad comparator ICs, the circuit permits 4 channels for being independently controlled only one channel is shown inside the diagram below for simplicity.
The circuit may be built in 4 portions 5V regulator, sawtooth generator, comparatorsMOSFETs and DAC with each part tested before moving for the next part. No special equipment should be used to test; a multimeter as well as a pair of headphones are sufficient.
The circuit was made on prototyping board with the circular ring variety best known as perfboard, but stripboard could be employed to if preferred. With the circular ring type board, the parts are soldered in position and very thin bare wire could be used to create traces within the underside different ways are possible too.
The photo below shows the mapping on the bits of circuit;
The entire layout is shown here and may be used as-is, or in case you want the boards to stack a minor change is a handful of parts must move slightly to allow for the screw holes that must be created within the prototyping board.
As mentioned, most from the wiring occurs around the underside from the board using thin bare wire. Note that capacitors C6 and C9 are soldered about the underside too, to hold wire lengths short. Each portion on the build is described in depth below but refer for the physical layout diagram above as you happen to be building each portion.
At this stage it's worth attempting you can save the RPI number one to ensure how the holes are within the correct position before proceeding further.
Most in the circuit operates from 5V, however the lamps have to have a higher voltage since they is going to be chained together. A 78L05 voltage regulator circuit was built, and tested which has a multimeter before proceeding further. The 78xx series regulators are incredibly common and used in the lot of projects. The L variant is needed for low power applications. The DC socket J1 can be obtained in thin and fat center pin variants and usually the best one is necessary to match the power. To save headache, utilize the recommended socket with a compressible diameter center pin that may handle both thicknesses from the mating plug.
Once you could have built in the regulator circuit, check which has a multimeter for the unpowered circuit to guarantee there are no obvious faults being a short circuit between 24V, 5V and 0V wires. Once this is accomplished, power this and confirm that you simply can successfully understand the 5V output.
The sawtooth generator consists of your 555 oscillator chip combined which has a single transistor constant current source. The sawtooth waveform is taken from your capacitor, rather than pin 3 from the 555. The 555 can be an extremely popular chip see for fifty more ideas.
With both the capacitors C3 and C4 as shown inside circuit diagram, the regularity of oscillation is pretty low some kHz to ensure that it is possible to find out the circuit easily without requiring an oscilloscope, before proceeding further.
To test the circuit, connect up the lowest cost set of headphones to pin 3 on the 555 and also to ground in series that has a small capacitor 100nF is okay. You should hear a high-pitched tone. If this can be successful then this circuit to date works well. The test is complete! Unsolder or cut out of the C4 capacitor to raise the frequency to your usable level to the project. The frequency can be approximately 15kHz.
The diagram here shows the generated waveform.
The PWM signal is created having a comparator chip. As the name suggests, a real device can compare two inputs and also the output becomes high or low based on which input is higher than the opposite. By supplying a hard and fast frequency sawtooth united input towards the comparator, it truly is possible to build any pulse width up for the period in the sawtooth by adjusting a voltage level around the other input in the comparator. If you wish to see this for an animation, just click here java needs being installed.
You will go to a screen similar to your one below. By adjusting the slider with the bottom-right, the PWM level may be adjusted and it is reflected from the animated waveform displays. Note that this simulator is great for testing out other circuits too.
The actual circuit is shown below. The output in the comparator is recognized as open drain that permits it to get connected up with a higher voltage. Five lamps are connected in series each are rated for 5V, which can be ideal for powering from the small 24V mains adapter. The circuit is repeated four times to ensure multiple channels of lights might be controlled. Refer to your table towards the left with the circuit below for your pinout to the LM2901 chip that contains 4 comparators inside.
Once this part from the circuit is assembled, it's possible to evaluate by applying a controlling voltage having a variable resistor to pin 7, 5, 9 or 11 from the LM2901 IC and notice the dimming action in the lights. If the lights were not assembled, you are able to use one particular LED in series using a 2.2k resistor.
The traces below show the signals probing at various points within the circuit. As the controlling voltage is varied, the width on the blue and purple pulses can change.
The final part with the circuit could be the quad DAC implementation which will interface between your Raspberry Pi plus the comparators. A reference voltage around 3.8V is made using resistors R14 and R15 potential divider circuit. This provides a fraction below 8 pieces of resolution with the lamp dimming action it truly is more than sufficient just for this use-case. The IC has four analog outputs, one for each and every comparator. The IC is loaded together with the desired levels by using a three-pin interface made up of CLK, LOAD and LDAC pins. These are manipulated using software.
Run several checks around the circuit to substantiate all is well. For all these tests, will not connect the board towards the RPI.
1. With power off, confirm no short between 24V, 5V and 0V lines which has a multimeter
2. Confirm the 5V connection within the DC connector J1 is connected towards the power pins for the three ICs
3. Confirm which the 0V connection on J1 is connected for the 0V pins within the three ICs and towards the MOSFET source pins
4. Now power up, and confirm having a multimeter how the regulator delivers 5V, and confirm how the regulator just isn't hot - it needs to be between cold and approximately body temperature if all is working well
5. If you failed to do it earlier, confirm with headphones plus a 100nF capacitor in series which you can hear a tone as described earlier. Once that is confirmed, snip or desolder the C4 capacitor.
6. Place a 10k resistor involving the DATA pin in the DAC and 0V that is easy to try and do by pushing the resistor in the jumper cable socket that could connect the controller board to your RPI. Place a multimeter throughout the resistor and confirm which you see 0V. Repeat to the other two signals that may connect the 2 boards together.
mkdir p development/light mkdir mytemp cd mytemp wget tar xvzf sudo cp - r node-v0.10.21-linux-arm-pi/opt/node
The above will result from the node executable being placed at/opt/node/bin being installed.
The/etc/profile file needs two lines added prior to a line saying export PATH. To do that, type
assuming you know how to make use of vi; otherwise work with an alternate editor. These are the 2 main lines to get added:
Once it comes down back alive, the second step is to setup :
The above command will need about 5 minutes to perform.
Now, In the mytemp folder, type the next to install a great GPIO library by Gordon unfortunately I dont know the very last name:
cd/mytemp git clone /wiringPi cd wiringPi./build
The above will download, compile and install the wiringPi library into/usr/local/lib.
Place the dac.c file that's attached to this post into your development/light folder plus the and files while you happen to be at it, and compile becoming shown here:
The software part is currently complete. As an effective test, connect inside the controller board to your RPI, plug within the 24V give you don t have to worry about any power-up sequence and utilize command below then confirm which has a multimeter which the DAC output pin 12 visits about 3.7V.
The first parameter was the channel number 0-3. If any lights were linked with channel 0, they would easily be lit up We still should make the lights, they can be described further below.
The lights on channel 0 may be dimmed to your value, for instance:
You should understand the DAC output on pin 12 vary accordingly because commands above are entered.
Depending on the needs you can construct the chains of lamps in a different way. A general topology is shown within the diagram here.
The four chains may be bundled together and secured using a small section of clear heatshrink tube or glue or tape or twisted together. As expected, the chains are staggered in order that light ripple effects run over the bundle. For a thinner bundle although four return wires are shown, they may be reduced to 1 wire going on the 24V supply that is certainly common to all four channels.
Since it is a custom design chances are you'll wish to adjust the lamp spacing to the exact perfect length. There is definitely an excel spreadsheet linked to this post that allows you to enter in parameters, and yes it will calculate the lengths of the many wires but do add a different centimetre for the drop length, allowing for wire stripping.
You in addition need plastic shapes here are several common translucent colors.
The steps you can save each lamp are described inside sketch here but also inside photographs further below. The clear or colored translucent plastic shapes might be built up towards the desired thickness by securing with clear tape along a several edges. This means it could be changed this year when you want some other color scheme.
The lamp assembly is surprisingly fast only make a few holes from the sticky feet by hand using a 0.8mm drill bit no need to get a tool, push inside the wires, strip the wires about 8mm, twist the lamp on the wires, optionally solder it, and after that attach the sticky feet for the plastic shape which has a bit of glue. The wire ends are going to be kept apart given that they automatically easily fit into between some from the ridges within the plastic shape hole, so no extreme caution needs to become taken during assembly the shaped hole also serves to be a lens as well as hold the lamp centered.
The resistance of the string of lights will likely be about 23 ohms while using recommended lamps.
Once you might have the lights connected up on the board, power up and go on the development/light folder the location where the code was placed and enter these command to start within the program:
Now you'll be able to traverse on the web page using any browser and you should visit a lights user interface view much like the one shown below. Pressing any button to look around the commands available. There are only two patterns in the meantime but more could be easily added if desired. Pattern speed is adjustable. The status bar will indicate if the RPI has gotten and processed the commands.
The lights controller described here makes for 4 channels of dimming and full control at a web browser. Hopefully it may provide further ideas. The software structure based on the platform is usually reused whenever you must control or monitor hardware remotely via a internet browser. The DAC control program, and TI s 4-channel TLC5620 DAC are suitable for whenever you require a computer-controlled, adjustable voltage for controlling external devices. The MOSFET control described here was quite simple but is great for whenever you need to switch some hundred milliamps without relays. Portions on the analog circuit were simulated before construction also it is worth getting to understand the simulator for trying things out. The actual traces on this page were taken that has a Tektronix MSO2024B oscilloscope. The quality with the laser-cut shapes from Problemchild s service was spectacular so I m looking forward to essentially using these lights now. If that you are interested in constructing something similar, a parts list is below plus the attached zip file contains each of the code.
Terminal block PCB mount 6 way 5.08mm 1 2008008
Posted by VictoriaJones Dec 3, 2013 As a keen photographer, I was intrigued of what the Point and Shoot Camera could deliver. The bundle is created utilizing the Raspberry Pi, PiFace Control and Display and Pi Camera, all packaged up in a few rather smart cases.
The build and execution from the timelapse is brilliantly simple, while using hardest part of the entire project being deciding exactly what the subject ought to be. One thing I will have to say is choose a place that could be undisturbed by movement or light discovering my sunrise timelapse which involved a 5am get rid of had fallen over mid-recording, was just slightly
So, first off get your kit together:
Then assemble your kit following instructions provided.
IMPORTANT you will discover 2 approaches to position the digital camera I opted for just a bit more flexibility by feeding from the gap near to the USB that enables the ribbon cable to keep free but you may mount with the SD card end likewise.
Once you've got your lovely camera ready, you'll want to prep the software program.
Assuming that you are using your Raspberry Pi yourself you ll must download the NOOBS software towards the SD card in the Raspberry pi Foundation page.
Then once you've got this, you ll have to enable the digital camera software about the PiFace Control Display. See the setup guide here.
And there we go, wanting to shoot.
Choose employment for maximum visibility if you have enough, test the set up on the camera by using test shots and reviewing. Be careful of reflections you s red LED will flash each and every shooting so in the event you place directly in front of glass by way of example, there s a good venture you ll begin to see the light or have a lovely red glow.
Make sure your SD card is cleared of images AND REMEMBER NOT TO OVERFILL you ll need and keep some memory returning to run the Raspbian to download your pictures. I found at most around 1500 images is okay. The display below demonstrates there are 1623 photos remaining not that are already taken. If you would like to take more, then obtaining a larger SD card will solve the issue Im having an 8GB.
Power the battery and wait for your PiFace Control Display on top of that up.
In the lower left corner on the screen you will note the text S1s1, they are the settings for your timelapse. The 1st number will be the period which the timelapse will require over and also the 2nd number could be the delay between each photo. The characters before these numbers represent time unit due to this number, currently set to s for seconds. Press your third button on the left to set time unit to the period, along with the 4th button with the time unit to the delay between pictures.
You may recognize that one from the characters is capitalised, this will be the setting that is certainly currently selected, to switch this number, flick the rocker switch left or right. Press the second button in the left to interchange between the period and also the delay. The amount of pictures taken is equal on the period divided from the delay between pictures. The number inside top right from the screen will be the number of pictures there's space left for on the RaspberryPi, when the settings to your timeplapse is going to take more pictures than there's space for, you will likely be notified through an exclamation mark if your timelapse starts.
The ideal amount of time between successive pictures will depend on your own subject, fast-paced and detailed scenes just like the car park look better with additional frames per second whereas you might expand the delay to every single 2 or 3 seconds to get a less detailed scene such as a sunset. But this could be the joy in the project you have to experiment.
Push down around the jog wheel to start with shooting.
Slowly step back leave alone the red LED continue to flash since the camera is shooting.
When the LED stops flashing, the timelapse continues to be recorded also it s time and energy to review your work.
Push down within the jog wheel to start with shooting.
Slowly step back by leaving alone the red LED continues to flash because camera is shooting.
When the LED stops flashing, the timelapse is recorded also it s time and energy to review your work.
Plug your PiView into the Point and Shoot Camera through the USB, make HDMI connection and connect into an HDMI cable containing already been fed into the monitor.
Switch the Point and Shoot Camera on using the portable battery.
A boot up screen should appear around the monitor.
After the command Password, type raspberry you won t go to whichever characters appearing but it truly is writing wait
After the command piraspberrypi, type startx and Raspbian OS will boot up.
Once you re into Raspbian, you'll be able to pull your photos.
Click for the first icon inside bottom left to come up with the windows, then open the snapcamera folde r
Open the photographs folder to discover your images.
Once you re sure you ve copied them over, you can take off the images through the SD card in order that it s clean and prepared to use instantly.
Now you might have your photos, download a timelapse compiling software you will discover loads of free versions however these have limitations with regard to frames per second or perhaps you could go the complete way and get a professional version it s around you.
Add your images towards the software and play around with all the settings to discover the speed and effects you re after.
Posted by howroyd Dec 2, 2013 Hydrogen fuel cells specifically PEMFCs are a fantastic technology which may be around for the while now. Unfortunately, they havent really pull off excuse the pun greatly assist high cost, poor lifetime and slow transient performance.
1. So why are people still interested?
Well, firstly you could have the ancient clean green argument. In operation, the ingest oxygen on the air and hydrogen the fuel, and provides out heat, water and electricity. No skin tightening and, monoxide, sulfides and also other nasty things.
Secondly, theyre not dependent upon fossil fuels to own, and so are currently one of the most promising energy generation technology that is certainly independent with the elements wind, solar, etc.
Hydrogen carries a superb energy density, meaning very little weight provides a huge endurance.
Fuel cells are apt to have no moving parts, unless the employ a cooling fan or air supply fan, so these are mechanically quite simple.
2. So why arent we along with them?
They require platinum like a catalyst so result in the chemical reactions work. Platinum is exceedingly expensive, plus much more annoyingly it tends for being washed away as time passes which lessens the fuel cells lifespan.
They are slow to reply, so cruising along at 10% power, then suddenly demanding a complete 100% will take anything from seconds, to minutes, to hours, depending for the type of fuel cell. This proves a major challenge in mechanical transport, for example planes, and cars.
Hydrogen is often a pain from the rear, generally. To produce the high quantities we require, you can only practice it cost-effectively by burning non-renewable fuels. Of course it might be generated using renewables wind, solar, etc, but this can be far too expensive for the moment for that industry to take into consideration.
Hydrogen also is really a pain to save. Because you will discover so few molecules in such a substantial amount of space low density, you have to hold it at tremendous pressures to obtain a usable quantity, which requires huge storage tanks. Not particularly practical in transport applications. There are other methods, but cost and practicality is still a massive issue.
To start I am not really a chemical engineer. However, I am a PhD researcher with the Hydrogen Fuel Cells their Applications Doctoral Training Centre DTC within the United Kingdom, so I know a great amount regarding it. By trade I am a autonomous control engineer, specialising in unmanned aerial vehicles UAVs.
Given the many problems outlined above, perhaps the suggestion of investing a fuel cell over a small UAV, that's essentially an altered off the shelf rc hobby plane, seems crazy. But it can be do-able, and is done. The advantages for flight arent the clean green approach currently dominating the selling feature of fuel cells, but that key phrase endurance. To fly for 10 hours, a UAV would need to many batteries to float, aside from fly, however with hydrogens energy density this could well be possible. Thats what Im about to find out.
4. So thats nearly 500 words without having raspberryPi?
Haha, hopefully I have set the scene now. Lets talk in regards to the electronics!
The fuel cell can be a dumb system. Its only a contained and continuous chemical reaction. But it could be controlled with the hydrogen supply, the load as well as the temperature. I can overcome poor people transient performance if I are aware that soon I will require full power; I can simply crank the fuel cell up, dump the power, then if your time comes, 100% is there to offer. Sounds wasteful, nonetheless it turns this fuel cell into something useful. To control the logic we need to have a computer. On a small UAV the raspberryPi is best suited, regarding size, power in out, flexibility and functionality.
Running a Real Time Operating System RTOS can be a seriously useful tool, which I could hardly do on my own work this past year using Arduino. I can programme in every language, use other artists software eg your camera and share my code while using world and myself for backup! on GitHub.
So far I am using several add-ons like the MATLAB/SIMULINK support that can help the academics!, rPi Camera, delta-sigma-pi I2C ADC, piFace SPI Digital IO, TMP102 I2C temperature sensors and have the entire lot associated with an onboard UAV autopilot.
At risk of getting this essay any further, Ill summary now. I hope this is something tickles your interest, whilst tuned for a lot of videos, pictures tutorials and demos inside the coming weeks. In the meantime, for anyone who is interested from the plane the have a look at my page on diydrones.
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Inspiring Mothers, Women and Families
Do you use a party in your own home on New Year s Eve? Or would you go to a party?
We usually gather with family and employ a party together. We eat yummy food and also be up late winning contests, going out and watching movies together. As your kids get older, we now have more and more ones who are joining us of these fun evening games. So this current year, I thought it might be fun to play awesome New Year s Eve Minute To Win It Games together. I came on top of 10 adapted versions of some Minute To Win It Games and modified them to suit our New Year s Eve Themeand I am sharing them here together with you so which you can play these phones.
I have provided some free printable cards for each on the New Year s Eve Minute to Win It Games. The cards contain the rules for every game. I also involve some free printables to go while using games that require them. You can click within the links and download them to design your own games to learn them in your Holiday Party. We used this countdown timer to the games, yet any timer will continue to work. We played in teams and took turns using different challenges. We competed which team could complete each challenge the easiest. But it is possible to adjust the rules to figure with your own personal group depending about the ages of those playing and also the number of players you've got.
Looking for any FREE Printable New Year s Eve Banner on your NYE celebration? Check out other New Year s Eve Ideas
Amy Huntley will be the owner/author of The Idea Room. A mother of five, who enjoys sharing her love of everything creative hoping inspiring other as well as families. Connect with her on Google, or learn more of her posts.
Where did your H marquee result from??
These games are really creative! What a wonderful gift you offer sending hugs for your requirements in your pursuit to bring families together for a great time!
You are very sweet!! Families are extremely important! Have a wonderful New Year!
So excited to make use of these games for your family New Year s Eve party! My grandson is likely to love this! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks Shelly! Happy New Year!
What fun ideas! We also hang out with our kids on New Year s eve and sooo want to create a couple of of these games. Thanks a lot for sharing!
You are incredibly welcome! Hope you might be able to utilize some of which!
thank you, the photographs really helped!!
This is very fun! We will start using thise games for New Year s Eve!:
Thank you! This will totally help maintain the kids entertained!!!
Thanks for sharing all in this. I just did a christmas minute to win it party for my relatives and they asked that I complete a NYE one too! So very happy to have found this so I don t must create everything new inside the next twenty four hours! Happy New Year for you and yours!
AMAZING! I was totally organizing a minute to win it New Years- Just being seated to plan it, but it's like you've it covered! Thank you a great deal!
Do you possess a picture within your poster board clock? Did you just cut holes out for hourly that they try and throw the marshmallows through? How big are definitely the holes? Did you also use a number from the hole? Thank you much for sharing your fun ideas printables!
Thanks for sharing! You ve made my job a whole lot easier this nye. I plan to perform 8 challenges; 1 every half-hour until midnight. I will print the directions in writing and hide each one in a very different numbered balloon that may be popped by another kid each half-hour.
Any suggestions on alloted time for every single game?
I had the identical question until I realized they're minute to win it games.
Thank you so much for that ideas! Can you explain this balloon mechanism one somewhat more? The they utilize air from your balloons to knock the cup over? Are the cups in the straight line or within a circle clock. Thanks!!
These ideas are incredibly cute! We are just carrying out a small family precisely the five individuals party tonight and therefore are definitely going being doing some of your respective games! And thanks with the free printables! You saved me a little while!
Thank you because of this awesome party in a very blog post! I am sick and returning from away from town and delighted to have a very plan for awesome games for my 5 youngsters with very little planning and work on my small end. You blessed Michelle from Harleysville. Thanks and Happy New Year!
Getting ready to experience some of these games tonight. Thank you!