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2015 Gabriel Interactive, Inc. and WD Encore Software, LLC, a subsidiary of WD Navarre Holdings, LLC and its particular licensors.
All Rights Reserved. Robot Arena can be a trademark of WD Encore Software, LLC and Gabriel Interactive, Inc.
This page is often a permanent showcase for a few of Clickbeetle and Firebeetles bots we've made in RA2. Note that each and every them are here; these are simply our best or most original. They are all made entirely with stock parts no AAM was implemented.
Antweights are an unofficial weight class of bots under 125 kgs.
A pushy antweight with invincible caster armor protecting top, Redbird drive, 1 small battery, and plastic armor.
One with the few antweight spinners around. Not terribly effective, but unusual. Angle motor drive, 1 small battery, and plastic armor.
A weird little bot which utilizes a glitch to really make it disappear after it gets hit, sometimes doing around 6000 damage at the same time, although rare. No drive, no batteries, and plastic armor.
A zippy little bot using a very fast glitch drill built to go over spinners. Angle motor drive, 1 Nifty battery, plastic armor.
Beetleweights are an unofficial weight class of bots 125.1-175 kgs.
A bigger Soul Weevil with two glitch drills meant to go over spinners, angle motor drive, 1 Supervolt battery, and plastic armor.
An original bar spinner design. Angle motor drive, 1 Nifty battery, and plastic armor.
A powerful Rupt flipper that will toss bots as much as any middleweight. 2 Rupting DDTs for flippers, angle motor drive, 1 Supervolt battery, and aluminum armor.
A powerful horizontal spinner with 9 razor tips, angle motor drive, 1 Nifty battery, and plastic armor.
A decent popup wedge with Snapper 2s for your weapon and flipper, Z-tek drive, 1 Supervolt battery, and aluminum armor.
An invertible true full-body spinner with numerous spikes and saw blade wheels. HP Z-tek weapon power, 2 Nifty batteries, aluminum armor.
A small version of Drumblebee with HP Z-tek drive, 1 Supervolt battery, and aluminum armor.
A bot having a caster-armored V-shaped front for stopping spinners and stabbing featuring its 4 pneumatic axe heads. HP Z-tek drive, 1 Supervolt battery, 1 air tank, and aluminum armor.
A wedge using a row of flipping/impaling spikes at the pinnacle, which could also be lowered by using a servo for ramming. HP Z-tek drive, 1 Supervolt battery, aluminum armor.
A dual stacked Z-tek vertical spinner that may toss bots like nobodys business because of a feeder wedge. 1 Supervolt battery, plastic armor.
A powerful horizontal spinner with 18 razor tips, angle motor drive, 1 Nifty battery, and plastic armor.
A very efficient popup wedge with 8 razor tips, 3 DDTs to the weapons and flipper, HP Z-tek drive, 2 Supervolt batteries, and aluminum armor.
The name says all of it, a middleweight with 5 spinners. Angle motor drive, 1 Supervolt battery, and plastic armor.
A popup wedge through an invincible caster-armored front. It begins upside down and self-rights straight away so the casters are saved to top. DDTs for your weapon and flipper, 2 Supervolt batteries, aluminum armor.
A nasty drumbot with HP Z-tek drive, 2 Supervolt batteries, a rear Snapper2-powered iron spike stinger, and aluminum armor.
This bot is outdated at this point, nevertheless it was the very first bot to get a really good-looking and good-performing drum weapon. It also incorporates a DDT-powered stinger inside the rear. HP Z-tek drive and weapon power, 3 Supervolt batteries, and titanium armor.
A pushy, caster-armored hammer bot having a unique bent hammer design that arches over other bots weapons heading to their tops. 4 HP Z-tek drive, 2 Supervolt and a pair of small batteries, DDTs for that hammers, and titanium armor.
A powerful horizontal spinner with 36 razor recommendations on 4 spinners, HP Z-tek drive, 2 Supervolt batteries, and plastic armor.
A fast, heavily armored popup wedge with 4 HP Z-tek drive, 4 DDTs for weapon and flippers, 3 Supervolt batteries, and titanium armor.
A bigger Event Horizon having a large rack of flipping/impaling spikes which could be lowered via servos for ramming. 4 HP Z-tek drive, 2 Supervolt batteries, and titanium armor.
A fast and incredibly strong popup wedge with 6 DDTs, 2 for flippers and 4 for weapons with 4 razor tips each. 4 HP Z-tek drive, 3 Supervolt batteries along with a bunch of small batteries, and aluminum armor.
A powerful dual vertical spinner powered by triple-stacked HP Z-teks, named following scary noise commemorate. 4 Supervolt batteries and aluminum armor.
A true full-body spinner with insane power once it gets around speed and saw blade wheels put together with invincible caster armor underneath to foil popup wedges. Burst-enhanced HP Z-tek weapon power, 2 Supervolt batteries, and aluminum armor.
The 1 battle bot Game is Back! Capitalizing for the tremendous success with the original Robot Arena, Robot Arena: Design Destroy takes it to a higher level with upgraded graphics and awesome new design tools, all combined with give aspiring warriors the greatest bot rush! Robot Arena: Design Destroy features more weapons and accessories, more robotic moves with an enhanced arena with ramps, sawblades and also other hazards.
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The 1 battle bot Game is Back! Capitalizing around the tremendous success with the original Robot Arena, Robot Arena: Design Destroy
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Bot Arena 2 is often a Robot Fighting Game. Destroy the opposing teams robot to generate. The money you have may be spent to purchase more bots and weapon/armor upgrades. Enemies get stronger per level so make sure available upgrades. Our tip to winning the action is to spend time earning money on weaker opponents. This way, you might buy better armor and weapons to get rid of the stronger bots.
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Battling bots of blazing fury! Now with shinier, faster, happier robots. Will your bot find a way to survive the metallic holocaust?
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Mike, Rancho Cucamonga 24 hours ago
thanks dude. really helped out!
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Control 100 ton Mechs while leading approximately eight hired guns into your battle.
Robot Arena- competitors build robots and rehearse radio controllers to push them.
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Install the experience - Full Installation.
Extract the ARENA CD Patch on the File Archive to the action directory.
Install the overall game - Full Installation.
Extract the Patch through the File Archive to the sport directory.
Install the sport - Full Installation.
Apply a state Robot Arena 2 v1.20 Patch.
Replace the first ROBOT ARENA file using the one through the File Archive.
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1.65 MB date added 13 Jun 2007 played 228, 624 times
If the action freezes, follow on inside it games might get unresponsive should you click elsewhere within the page.
When setting up a bot, enter cheatbot2 to be a case-sensitive bot name. A flash for the screen an audio will confirm correct code entry. This will unlock new weapons while they appear under mechanics, like the flamethrower, the cannon, electromagnet and also the hover-craft engine. This can't be used in multi-player mode. Note: The latest patch becomes necessary for this code.
Press F12 while in the arena to discover all the hit areas that talk with you robot or even the CPUs robot. Press F12 to exit this mode.
Note: This procedure involves changing game files; make a backup copy on the files before proceeding. Enter the Robot Arena 2 folder. Go to your ai folder. Open a team folder and copy bot.0, bot.1, and/or bot.2 on the robot design folder within the Robot Arena 2 folder. Load the sport and enter Team HQ. Select or produce a team, and select an open slot. Do not go into the workshop. Select Import Bot at the bottom from the screen, and select an XTRA robot or one with the robots you might have copied. For example, Team 0 is Red Zone. Copy bot.1 with the ALARM robot. Note: You could only copy one with the bot.0, bot.1, and bot.2 files. If you import a robot and export it, it'll create precisely the same robot under its name.
If your assailant is immobile, allowed them to get counted out rather than attacking them and risking damage.
After you employ up your time while repairing, go back towards the menu, time for HQ, then return to your repairing screen. Your time will likely be reset to 30 minutes. This can be done as often as needed. Note: This no more works with versions more than v1.00.
If you're fighting inside Electric Arena plus a piece breaks off of your assailant, push it or leave it about the shock floor from the middle. Your enemy help keep getting shocked and take damage even following robot leaves the grid. Likewise, in the event you drop some yourself within the grid push them back so that you just stop getting shocked.
When that you are facing an enemy with abnormal weapons including Bear or Bushido, both bots may fly throughout the level if they're pushing against the other.
When designing a robot, set up 20 if not more Burst Pistons in it. It will start floating the room in battle. Note: If you do Test Bot after achieving this, ensure your you exit the Testing Arena before it dies, normally your game will freeze.
Create a bot containing full dimensions maximum height, width, and length, and possess some extenders inside sticking out on the chassis. Then, go for the decal selection from the paint shop. Put a radiation decal from the center on top. Put one out of each area amongst two on the bars that stick out through the center. Do that again. When you enter a meeting, the extenders will probably be invisible.
If you might be placing a swinging arm or weapon within your bot, make extender point straight out on the robot. Fill the robot together with the needed components. Fit several things as you possibly can. Then, consider the arm and adjust it back in the robot body. The arm should swing freely the components within the inside in the bot.
Robot Arena: Design Destroy returns robot vs. robot battles with an increase of arenas, weapons, accessories, and robot designs. Players will guide their cybernetic warriors over ramps, dodge blades, and take care of hellraisers. Robot design gives players an variety of parts and allows the bots for being designed without constricting chassis parameters. Multiplayer options allow as much as four players to compete head-to-head on the Internet, and extra spectators can go online and watch the battles.
DirectX 7.0 compatible Video Card
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1 File download, Total size 161.16 MB
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Build a team of bots by using the instructions from the game.
Each bot comprises a chassis, plating, and weapon.
After getting the items; first mount the plating for the chassis.
Second mount the weapon for the plating.
You can buy more than one bot.
Once you might have built your team, click start battle to select your tournament.
Better chassis, plating, and weapon upgrades will likely be available while you advance over the tournament.
During battle you'll be able to click and drag your bot towards the desired location.
Use your mouse to try and do everything.
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Featuring the newest Robot Arena 2 cheats, hints and tips
When generating a bot, enter cheatbot2 being a case-sensitive bot name. A flash for the screen an audio will confirm correct code entry. This will unlock new weapons while they appear under mechanics, such as flamethrower, the cannon, electromagnet and also the hover-craft engine. This can not be used in multi-player mode. Note: The latest patch becomes necessary for this code.
Note: This procedure involves changing game files; build a backup copy with the files before proceeding. Enter the Robot Arena 2 folder. Go on the ai folder. Open a team folder and copy bot.0, bot.1, and/or bot.2 towards the robot design folder within the Robot Arena 2 folder. Load the experience and enter Team HQ. Select or make a team, and select an open slot. Do not enter in the workshop. Select Import Bot at the bottom on the screen, and select an XTRA robot or one with the robots you've copied. For example, Team 0 is Red Zone. Copy bot.1 to the ALARM robot. Note: You are only able to copy one on the bot.0, bot.1, and bot.2 files. If you import a robot and export it, it is going to create a similar robot under its name.
If the other guy is immobile, permit them to get counted out rather than attacking them and risking damage.
After you have up your time while repairing, go back towards the menu, time for HQ, after which return to your repairing screen. Your time are going to be reset to 30 minutes. This can be done as often as needed. Note: This not works with versions in excess of v1.00.
If you're fighting inside the Electric Arena plus a piece breaks off of your assailant, push it or leave it about the shock floor inside the middle. Your enemy can keep getting shocked and take damage even as soon as the robot leaves the grid. Likewise, in the event you drop a bit of yourself for the grid push them back so that you simply stop getting shocked.
When you're facing an enemy with abnormal weapons like Bear or Bushido, both bots may fly throughout the level if they're pushing against one another.
If a person happens to have some tips just for this game, you can submit them and they is going to be published here. Please click on the following link to become taken towards the cheats submission form.
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Robot Arena 2 Design Destroy is really a game in which you create robots. It is often a sequel on the original Robot Arena. We make robots and employ them to fight for some other robots. Multiplayer support are going to be possible using GameSpy website. If that you are interested in electronics and robotics, you are going to like it.
The aggregate score based about the apps rating, amount of users, plus a number of other parameters closely connected to user satisfaction.
The most effective score is 10.
Robot Arena can be a new computer game for that PC manufactured by Gabriel Interactive and published by Infogrames. It is based about the popular hobby/event of robot combat, where competitors build robots and employ radio controllers drive an automobile them and deal with other robots in a enclosed battle arena.
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Control 100 ton Mechs while leading approximately eight hired guns to the battle.
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The aggregate score based within the apps rating, quantity of users, along with a number of other parameters closely associated with user satisfaction.
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Toolbar keep in touch together with your arena friends.
The aggregate score based within the apps rating, amount of users, plus a number of other parameters closely linked with user satisfaction.
The most beneficial score is 10.
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Robot Arena 2-Roaming Robots AI Pack!
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Hey all, i've a game called Robot Arena 2, and im currently making an AI pack because of it.
It will likely be my first AI pack, and the 1st Roaming Robots AI pack!
I actually have a few replicas, however, not enough.
If anyone desires to submit thier robot, then great!
Ill try to upload pictures of my replicas after i know how to make pictures up.
Fluffy FW, one which scares the out if ya!
And a number of more replicas, provided to me by my pal, Alphasim:
And theres a number of more however i havent gotten pictures of these yet.
If your robot is at this list, and would like to find out the replica, or when you have Robot Arena 2, next, i can give you file, and components.
Or i could just give back the picture!
Hoogvliet, The Netherlands
I have Robot Arena 2 somewhere, but I do not have a clue where I left it once i moved house.
Id become to see what we made of those.
Yes, i've made your FW, Hannabilito, ill check if i can post you a picture or something that is, wait, i Be right back!
Sorry, youll need to copy and paste the complete thing
Hang on, everyone, im will make a file to suit your needs all to download, a mini AI Pack, be right
Copy and paste this for your URL, then look at README file.
Hoogvliet, The Netherlands
Hoogvliet, The Netherlands
Looks great, lots cleaner compared to the real thing.
Thanks, the shape is often a bit wrong in contrast to the hexagon
Its a reasonably good flipper inside it, but you may know if youve downloaded those.
Tell others if thier bot is from it!
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HP Z-tek drive, 1 Supervolt battery, aluminum armor.
HP Z-tek drive, 1 Supervolt battery, 1 air tank, and aluminum armor.
Burst-enhanced HP Z-tek weapon power, 2 Supervolt batteries, and aluminum armor.
Event Horizon 2 Builder: Clickbeetle A wedge having a row of flipping/impaling spikes at the summit, which could also be lowered by way of a servo for ramming.
It starts upside down and self-rights without delay so the casters are stored on top.
Mourning Cloak 2 Builder: Clickbeetle A decent popup wedge with Snapper 2 s to the weapon and flipper, Z-tek drive, 1 Supervolt battery, and aluminum armor.
Antweights Antweights are an unofficial weight class of bots under 125 kgs.
Angle motor drive, 1 Nifty download battery, plastic armor.
It also carries a DDT-powered stinger inside rear.
Drumblebee Builder: Clickbeetle This bot is outdated right now, nevertheless it was the initial bot undertake a really good-looking and good-performing drum weapon.
Beetleweights are an unofficial weight class of bots kgs.
Dust Devil Builder: Firebeetle One in the few antweight spinners available.
Builder: Clickbeetle A dual stacked Z-tek vertical spinner that will toss bots like nobody s heaven business due to a feeder wedge.
Pure WeEvil Builder: Clickbeetle A bigger Soul Weevil with two glitch drills made to go over spinners, angle motor drive, 1 Supervolt battery, and plastic armor.
And WD Encore Software, LLC, a subsidiary of WD Navarre Holdings, LLC as well as licensors.
DDT s for your weapon and flipper, 2 Supervolt batteries, aluminum armor.
The Killer Bee LA Builder: Firebeetle A powerful horizontal spinner with 9 razor tips, angle motor drive, 1 Nifty battery, and plastic armor.
Points of No Return Builder: Clickbeetle A bigger Event Horizon which has a large rack of flipping/impaling spikes that could be lowered via servos for ramming.
Heavyweights Drumblebee 5 Builder: Clickbeetle A nasty drumbot with HP Z-tek drive, 2 Supervolt batteries, a rear Snapper2-powered iron spike stinger, and aluminum armor.
Seism 12.5 Builder: Firebeetle A fast and extremely effective popup wedge with 6 DDT s, 2 for flippers and 4 for weapons with 4 razor tips each.
Quake 11.7 Builder: Firebeetle A incredibly strong popup wedge with 8 razor tips, 3 DDT s for that weapons and flipper, HP Z-tek drive, 2 Supervolt batteries, and aluminum armor.
Antweights are an unofficial weight class of bots lower than 125 kgs.
DEDBDNME Builder: FirebeetleA pushy antweight with invincible caster armor protecting the top, Redbird drive, 1 small battery, and plastic armor.
Dust Devil Builder: FirebeetleOne on the few antweight spinners available. Not terribly effective, but unusual. Angle motor drive, 1 small battery, and plastic armor.
Nasty Pickle 2 Builder: FirebeetleA weird little bot using a glitch to really make it disappear the moment it gets hit, sometimes doing approximately 6000 damage at the same time, although rare. No drive, no batteries, and plastic armor.
Soul Weevil Builder: ClickbeetleA zippy little bot which has a very fast glitch drill made to go over spinners. Angle motor drive, 1 Nifty battery, plastic armor.
Beetleweights are an unofficial weight class of bots 125.1-175 kgs.
Pure WeEvil Builder: ClickbeetleA bigger Soul Weevil with two glitch drills meant to go over spinners, angle motor drive, 1 Supervolt battery, and plastic armor.
The Killer Bee BA Builder: FirebeetleAn original bar spinner design. Angle motor drive, 1 Nifty battery, and plastic armor.
Catapult 3.0 Builder: FirebeetleA powerful Rupt flipper that will toss bots as much as any middleweight. 2 Rupting DDTs for flippers, angle motor drive, 1 Supervolt battery, and aluminum armor.
The Killer Bee LA Builder: FirebeetleA powerful horizontal spinner with 9 razor tips, angle motor drive, 1 Nifty battery, and plastic armor.
Mourning Cloak 2 Builder: ClickbeetleA decent popup wedge with Snapper 2s to the weapon and flipper, Z-tek drive, 1 Supervolt battery, and aluminum armor.
Dark Cloud Builder: ClickbeetleAn invertible true full-body spinner with a lot of spikes and saw blade wheels. HP Z-tek weapon power, 2 Nifty batteries, aluminum armor.
Drumblebee Larva 2 Builder: ClickbeetleA small version of Drumblebee with HP Z-tek drive, 1 Supervolt battery, and aluminum armor.
DNME Builder: FirebeetleA bot that has a caster-armored V-shaped front for stopping spinners and stabbing using its 4 pneumatic axe heads. HP Z-tek drive, 1 Supervolt battery, 1 air tank, and aluminum armor.
Event Horizon 2 Builder: ClickbeetleA wedge having a row of flipping/impaling spikes at the pinnacle, that may also be lowered using a servo for ramming. HP Z-tek drive, 1 Supervolt battery, aluminum armor.
Gnasty Builder: ClickbeetleA dual stacked Z-tek vertical spinner that may toss bots like nobodys business as a result of a feeder wedge. 1 Supervolt battery, plastic armor.
The Killer Bee MB Builder: FirebeetleA powerful horizontal spinner with 18 razor tips, angle motor drive, 1 Nifty battery, and plastic armor.
Quake 11.7 Builder: FirebeetleA incredibly strong popup wedge with 8 razor tips, 3 DDTs for your weapons and flipper, HP Z-tek drive, 2 Supervolt batteries, and aluminum armor.
Uber 5-Spinnered MW of Doom Builder: FirebeetleThe name says all this, a middleweight with 5 spinners. Angle motor drive, 1 Supervolt battery, and plastic armor.
The Ultimate Sacrifice Builder: ClickbeetleA popup wedge having an invincible caster-armored front. It begins upside down and self-rights straight away so the casters are saved to top. DDTs to the weapon and flipper, 2 Supervolt batteries, aluminum armor.
Drumblebee 5 Builder: ClickbeetleA nasty drumbot with HP Z-tek drive, 2 Supervolt batteries, a rear Snapper2-powered iron spike stinger, and aluminum armor.
Drumblebee Builder: ClickbeetleThis bot is outdated right now, but it really was the initial bot to experience a really good-looking and good-performing drum weapon. It also carries a DDT-powered stinger within the rear. HP Z-tek drive and weapon power, 3 Supervolt batteries, and titanium armor.
Fallout 2 Builder: FirebeetleA pushy, caster-armored hammer bot having a unique bent hammer design that arches over other bots weapons hitting their tops. 4 HP Z-tek drive, 2 Supervolt and a pair of small batteries, DDTs with the hammers, and titanium armor.
The Killer Bee HB Builder: FirebeetleA powerful horizontal spinner with 36 razor recommendations on 4 spinners, HP Z-tek drive, 2 Supervolt batteries, and plastic armor.
Monarch 2 Builder: ClickbeetleA fast, heavily armored popup wedge with 4 HP Z-tek drive, 4 DDTs for weapon and flippers, 3 Supervolt batteries, and titanium armor.
Points of No Return Builder: ClickbeetleA bigger Event Horizon having a large rack of flipping/impaling spikes which could be lowered via servos for ramming. 4 HP Z-tek drive, 2 Supervolt batteries, and titanium armor.
Seism 12.5 Builder: FirebeetleA fast and very efficient popup wedge with 6 DDTs, 2 for flippers and 4 for weapons with 4 razor tips each. 4 HP Z-tek drive, 3 Supervolt batteries and also a bunch of small batteries, and aluminum armor.
Shriek Builder: FirebeetleA powerful dual vertical spinner powered by triple-stacked HP Z-teks, named as soon as the scary noise celebrate. 4 Supervolt batteries and aluminum armor.
Thunder Cloud 3 Builder: ClickbeetleA true full-body spinner with insane power once it gets nearly speed and saw blade wheels along with invincible caster armor underneath to foil popup wedges. Burst-enhanced HP Z-tek weapon power, 2 Supervolt batteries, and aluminum armor.
First of the, you must decide the final weight array of your bot. Currently, there is often a very wide selection of weight classes, totaling 12.
Mechwars-only 390 poundsFor beginners, the antweight and beetleweight divisions are a fantastic place to start out. 1 and 3 pound bots less complicated cheaper and easier to develop than heavier bots, and they're just just as much fun to combat, if not to ever watch. Fairyweights and UK ants could be also a good beginning, nevertheless it is harder to hold 75-150 gram bots underweight than slightly heavier bots. The heaviest weight class that you ought to attempt as being a beginner, in my view, is middleweight. Heavyweight and above get pretty expensive and harder to make.
Now comes the fun part: deciding which kind of weapon your bot is going to own. Ive listed some in the most common ones below. Combining multiple weapons into one bot is always a superb idea by way of example, a wedge along with a spinner, along with your bot should either be invertible, in a position to self-right, or really tough to flip should you cross paths having a flipper. Also keep planned the principle: Keep It Simple, Stupid! For example, a middleweight that has a pneumatic powered weapon is not an excellent place to start for the beginner we found this out of the hard way. Also steer clear of walkers and hydraulics for your time being. Unless, naturally, you already know a good deal about mechanics and engineering and stuff, that should be okay to get started on there.
Pushy bots. By far the most commonly encountered, simple, and effective form of bot. Pushy bots just do that: push their opponent round the arena, preferably into hazards or to the wall. The front end usually includes either a wedge so you can get under other bots or maybe a plow. You could also put a spike on top or rear to ram the other guy with and even do some damage. In order being effective, pushy bots really should be fast, torquey, durable, and have absolutely a good driver. Its a fundamental, all-around design beneficial to beginners.
Horizontal spinners. The most destructive design available, yet easy. Horizontal spinners simply rotate a horizontal bar, disc, or full-body shell around at high speeds to hold up kinetic energy and after that transfer it for the other bot inside an often spectacular shower of sparks and debris. But some of the energy will even recoil into your spinner, making spinners somewhat vulnerable to breaking themselves on a major hit. Also, in the event the object being spun is even slightly unbalanced, it may the bot to try and do a Mauler dance and flip over. In order being effective, horizontal spinners needs to have a fast-spinning weapon a minimum of 1500 RPM, an instant spin-up time only 10 seconds, and be competent to withstand heavy impacts. In general, they tend to overpower vertical spinners and hammers, but lose against good pushy bots and flippers.
Vertical spinners. A vertical spinner would be the same concept being a horizontal spinner, except the weapon is spun vertically to save kinetic energy. The weapon is frequently a disc, a bar, or perhaps a drum. The advantage to this particular setup is a large enough impact can flip the opposing robot. A vertical spinner will even not bounce away if this hits a target such as a horizontal spinner, and it can not perform a Mauler dance if your weapon becomes unbalanced. However, vertical spinners can tip over whenever they turn prematurely due to gyroscopic effects. They will also be beaten by horizontal spinners without difficulty except inside insect weight classes, where vertical spinners have reached the top in the food chain. They are more effective against pushy bots.
Full-body spinners. Not being mistaken for shell spinners, which can be called full body spinners although technically inaccurate. True FBSs have been a rare design nowadays, but Ive included it because it truly is so simple and easy was once common. A full-body spinner simply turns around at high speeds to hold kinetic energy inside the same way like a horizontal spinner. This design requires no additional motor to power the weapon, however, so it really is much simpler and much easier to make. The disadvantge is the fact that full-body spinners cant move and spin simultaneously. Also, due to your weight on the object being spun the full bot, they cant store up quite just as much kinetic energy like a horizontal spinner. One effective design should be to add a long tail towards the bot that has a heavy weapon about the end hence the tip can reach high speeds. This is really a basic, all-around design great for beginners.
Flippers/lifters. These bots use the pneumatic arm to turnover bots in to the air and onto their back, or perhaps an electric or hydraulic arm to slowly lift the opponent and tip it over. The arm may also act like a self-righting device if implemented correctly. They are especially effective when combined having a wedge. Flippers and lifters are most beneficial against non-invertible bots that cant self-right. They are less capable against invertible bots or ones which may right themselves when upside-down, but they can still be dangerous when they are powerful enough.
Hammers. Self-explanatory. Hammer bots possess a long rod having a heavy weapon around the end that swings vertically being a hammer. They usually need to get pneumatic powered to get effective, although it really is also possible to train on a spring under high tension. If it can be built right, the hammer can even be a self-righting mechanism. Hammer bots are basic, all-around designs, but not the most effective place to start out for beginners.
Crushers. This kind of robot runs on the hydraulic or electric jaw to slowly crush the opponent or simply to trap them. They can be difficult to make because the jaws need to get able to handle a whole lot of pressure. Crushers are most reliable against slow bots therefore the jaws may have time to close.
Draw plans of just what exactly your robot will look like, how it'll work, and the way parts will probably be arranged inside. Theres no requirement for exact measurements yet - its too early to discover what they will be. But you needs to have a general idea with the size and weight of your respective bot prior to buying the parts. Dont know what parts you would like? Theres a fundamental list slightly further down this site.
Make your design practical! While combining multiple weapon systems is a useful one, dont seek to go overboard by using it. For example, this is NOT a practical design:
It looks cool, but obviously any good professional bot builder might have major headaches over hoping to get it under 390 pounds, when it would also be possible to perform. A much more realistic design, when you wanted about the same style of bot because one above, would employ a more boxy chassis, possibly having a wedge from the rear, no flipper, and just one spinner that may be much better supported. Titanium armor and expensive motors like E-teks also arent very realistic for just a first bot unless you've a money tree inside your backyard. Ill say it again: Keep It Simple, Stupid.
Look for potential flaws or ways you could potentially improve your design. Keep Murphys Law planned: If something will go wrong, it is going to. Also consider your driving abilities and mechanical skills, and plan your design accordingly.
First, basic principles. Every robot needs the next components:
Power. If you didnt know this then maybe robot building isnt for you personally. Batteries dont require much explanation - they need for being rechargeable and in addition they need to meet your motors voltage and current requirements. They should even be able to last 3 minutes together with the motors under load.
Motors. Another obvious one. You need at the very least 2 motors for drive. Drive motors ought to be powerful however, not spin really quick - when they do you should gear them down for no more speed and even more torque. Weapon motors for spinners should spin as fast as you possibly can but still plenty of torque to get a fast spinup time. Weapon motors for electric lifters and crushers ought to have as much torque as you can but still have sufficient speed to go the weapon ahead of the opponent escapes.
Transmitter and Reciever. The transmitter will be the remote that you just hold and push buttons on. The reciever goes inside the robot and recieves signals through the transmitter. The reciever is generally light and powered with a separate power source, so the linksys e2000 thing you have to worry about is frequency only 75 MHz ground frequency is allowed for robots plus the number of channels. You will need 2 channels for driving the other more per weapon you could have.
Speed Controllers. A speed controller is exactly what turns signals the reciever gets to commands for that motors. Some can control multiple motors during a period while others is only able to control one and also you must use several speed controller. Make sure your speed controller works with the current and voltage undergoing it, because they are quite delicate! Many robots have forfeit matches because of burnt-out speed controllers.
Building Materials. Steel, titanium, aluminum, polycarbonate plastics, and graphite are the most commonly encountered building materials. For beginners, aluminum is often a great material on account of its light in weight, decent strength, workability, and affordable. Steel can be good in the event you want more durability, nonetheless it is heavier and slightly harder to utilize. Carbon fiber is also a fantastic material for newbies for its extreme light-weight and rigidity, but is merely strong enough for very light classes. At this point, you are going to probably only be capable to estimate the amount of building material you may need. Get a nothing more than this estimate for those who end up needing it.
The following tools will not be essential to making a bot, but they also will increase the risk for job easier:
Metal cutting tool. Usually a band saw, but in the event you have a great deal of money, you could possibly get a waterjet cutter or a good laser cutter. We utilize a band saw from Grizzly Industrial.
Drill press. You will probably need one of these brilliant if youre using rivets or screws to create your bot. A regular power drill just isnt accurate enough for the majority of purposes. We utilize a drill press from Tool Shop.
Welder. If you dont require to use rivets or screws to create your frame, you'll need to weld it, as well as that you'll need a welder.
Grinder. This is great for shaving off extra items of metal that get inside way and for sharpening weapons. Just dont seek to grind aluminum or maybe your grinding wheel could possibly get all clogged with dust. We work with a grinder from Ryobi.
Soldering iron. Chances are, sometime throughout the wiring of one's bot you may have to solder some wires. We actually make use of a really old model that individuals got without cost because somebody would definitely throw it away, nevertheless it still works perfectly fine.
Before buying the various, make certain everything is compatible, your entire parts really should have similar voltage and current ratings. The exception can be your reciever, that may usually either use a separate battery or possess a battery elimination circuit that can bring down the power directly through the main battery to manageable levels.
Now its time for you to get buying! The first place we look for parts is The Robot Marketplace. If the part youre seeking isnt there, try one on the other websites on backlinks page on this internet site. If you still cant look for a part, then get one of these Google search. Or if you are on a tight budget, having a bit of luck you are able to find good cheap robot parts with a surplus store. It is also a great idea to look at a number of different sites and parts before selecting to compare prices and quality. You dont want to obtain a part, only to discover another one later that may be better. Also keep under consideration that youre likely to need more parts later within the construction of one's bot. Its unlikely that you will likely be able to get everything you will need all at once.
Once you have all of the major internal parts within your robot, lay them on a flat surface so you'll be able to determine the scale of your baseplate. The parts really should be close together to lower the size with the frame, but ensure to leave a bit leeway in the event that something changes at a later date.
Now appraise the amount of space the various take up and cut down a baseplate. The baseplate really should be rigid - you dont want the weight from the stuff on it so it will be sag. I recommend mounting the batteries, reciever, and speed controllers for the baseplate via screws for heavy components or those needing a heat sink for example speed controllers. For light components you'll be able to probably make do with duct tape or glue to support them down. Dont mount the motors around the baseplate unless youre developing a very light bot such as a fairyweight or if your baseplate is extra-thick. They must be attached towards the frame.
Now you need to understand exactly how big your frame is going being. Once you have the many pieces cut for the right length, you should connect them somehow. This can be done by welding or by screws/rivets. If done efficiently, a welded frame is stronger than the usual bolted one. However, a bolted frame can easily be disassembled for repairs. All our bots are held along with screws because of the simplicity and non-permanentness.
All thats left now should be to assemble everything. If your bot winds up overweight, your plan depends on by the amount of. If it can be over the load limit by any further than 20% of one's alotted weight, I would recommend fighting it from the heavier weight class, possibly adding more stuff to it for making use of additional weight. If your bot just isn't overweight by much, there are many things you'll be able to do to place it on the diet.
Holes. Drill a great deal of holes inside your frame/armor for any trendy Swiss cheese look and also a lighter bot. Dont drill these to many or too big, though, or it's going to severely weaken your bot.
Different parts. There will usually be some parts of one's bot that it is possible to replace with lighter ones, or maybe even reduce completely. Sometimes you might get lucky and discover a lighter do without equal or better performance compared to the one you've got. If you do, understand it, even when it is often a bit higher priced. Otherwise, you might need to sacrifice some of the bots power/durability to get underweight.
New chassis. There can be some way to arrange the various components such that it is possible to shrink your frame and lose weight. You should probably only do this when you are desparate or if this would greatly raise your bots effectiveness.
Thats all I can educate you for now, as I myself am still a bit of a rookie. Any more useful information I study on building bots and competing at events will definitely be put into this tutorial eventually.
How to Mod RA2 Without 3D Studio Max. A detailed, step-by-step help guide to making custom components for RA2 using only Notepad and also a free decompiler program.
RA2 Building Techniques. A detailed guide of the many most useful guidelines for making killer bots known for the RA2 community, split up into Basic, Advanced, and Expert difficulty levels.
RA2 Component Statistics. A list of most hitpoints, damage values, electricity drain, and electricity supply for batteries, motors, and weapons. Useful for advanced builders trying optimum performance using their bot.
RA2 Bot Showcase. Not just as much a tutorial as it is usually a showcase of bots weve made, nevertheless it gives an idea of everything you can do in RA2 and can provide some inspiration.
A variety of additional components for you personally to put in your bot and play around with. Firebeetles Component Pack is just not meant for serious fighting, but just to make unique, fun-to-use cheater bots. You should stick while using parts that come with the experience for any bots you propose to share or use online.
Everything through the Test Garage except ramps, available these days to put on your own robot.
Consolation prizes for lost tournaments, including Biggie Burgers and Fruit Punch.
Super powered spin motor, burst motor, air piston.
Clown Head Bomb - just one HP but very efficient.
Outside mounted battery.
Acid spike - powerful weapon.
Loudspeaker - plays music during battles.
Wildfire battery - compact, light, dishes out a lot of power, but doesnt go very far.
Micro motor - smaller, lighter, and fewer powerful as opposed to Reversible Angle Motor.
Fortified Extender - stronger, damaging extender, but additionally heavier.
Mega Adapter - Stack components, make stuff floating, mount batteries outside your bot, the number of choices are endless!
Distortion Field - Blow how big the ordinary components exit of proportion.
Hammer Motor - Powerful motor that only rotates in the 180 degree arc to make hammer weapons.
Ghost Wedge - Sinks in the floor although not other bots, rendering it impossible to acquire under!
Sheet Wedge - Big flat wedge in making dustpans or armor plating.
Neutron Star Piece - The heaviest component ever.
Antimatter Neutron Star Piece - The lightest component ever. The only anti-ballast you'll ever need.
Refrigerator - Straight from your Robot Wars Arena, it will make an evil weapon.
Fridgedy Motor - Crazily powered motor to advance bots with Refrigerators with them.
Crusher Motor - The most powerful drive/servo motor ever. It is actually much unstoppable.
Mini Magnet - A much smaller, lighter, better magnet. Able to get stacked in columns to produce ultra-powerful supermagnets!
Mini Hover Engine - A much smaller, lighter, more effective hover engine. Able to get stacked in columns to create rocket boosters!
Infinity Piston - A powerful, tiny piston with extremely long range, just about infinity but close enough. Burst and servo versions.
Acid Spikes and Fortified Extenders have new models and skins.
Clown Head Bombs tend to be powerful, adjusted attachment point, as well as an improved skin.
Biggie Burgers smear ketchup and mustard on opponents chassis.
New music choice for Loudspeakers.
New connection points added within the sides from the Refrigerator and Spent Nuclear Fuel barrel for easier attaching.
Most components have modified damage and hitpoints settings. Acid Spikes and Biggie Burgers have frequency settings.
Slightly improved seek out Fridgedy Motor.
Monster Wheel - Huge, damaging monster truck tires that it is possible to run over your opponents with.
Rocket Wheel - Extremely grippy wheel that could move your bot with insane speed.
The Sweet Tasty Grapes crate is advantageous! It is actually a cannon that fires grapes that could never stop bouncing across the arena.
El Tonno Eyes - Separate eye components for your special El Tonno style robots, for sale in four styles.
HP Fridgedy Motor - Even more crazily powered as opposed to standard Fridgedy for moving bots with increased than one fridge.
Empty Spent Nuclear Fuel Barrel - Lighter and even more useable compared to 1500kg barrel, but less powerful.
Fortified Extender txt files fixed - the newest model is actually used.
All components except El Tonno eyes were made non-standard to discourage their utilization in multiplayer.
New in V4.1 - Grape Crate collision fixed, it could possibly now be put on your own bot.
Fish - A big, floppy fish for slapping the other guy around with.
Summon: Refrigerator - A small, light platform which will conjure a fridge beyond thin air when activated.
Laser Rifle - The name says everthing.
Mini Laser - Smaller but less powerful version on the laser rifle.
Energy Spike - Powerful laser spike with almost zero mass, obtainable in 3 colors and 3 sizes.
Robo-arm - A powerful servo motor that has a long arm to create appendages of any type.
Smart Zone Ballast - Heavy smart zones for weighting down your bot in unusual ways. Includes a 1, 000, 000 kg weight for producing unstoppable juggernauts.
Chicken Motor - Tiny motor that easily performs the chicken glitch. For an explanation see RA2 Techniques
Rooster Servo - Servo version on the Chicken Motor.
Updated cinder blocks with new textures and new connection points allowing you to definitely stack them just like a brick wall.
The Neutron Star Piece is slightly bigger and much less likely to create your bot explode in battle.
Reskinned Ghost Wedges and also a few other minor changes.
5.1 patch - fixes laser rifle firing problems.
This pack adds Python scripts that enable someone to enter new cheat codes in-game many different fun effects. The inputs you have to enter are greatly simplified and much more user-friendly compared to raw Python they can be based on, so you can now do it. The cheats include:
help - comes up using a help menu listing each one of these cheats.
clear - This turns within the FPS again, cleaning this window. Enter clear0 to make the FPS off again.
killID - Enter the ID number 0-3 in the bot you intend to kill inside the parenthesis. If left blank it can kill all opponents.
flypower, ID - Type inside the amount of power along with the ID from the bot you intend to fling in to the air. Both are optional, you'll be able to enter fly to file for yourself with 800 power.
fly2 - Exactly a similar as fly, however it will launch you forward. Great for ramming.
gravx - Enter a number to have that level of gravity. - 1 will likely be upside-down, 0.5 will probably be half gravity, 4 is super heavy, 0 is not any gravity, etc.
repair - this will likely repair your chassis beyond its limit, so that it is near invincible. You can enter an bot ID from the parenthesis take to a specific bot too.
turbo - Repairs all of one's components, giving you tougher parts and high-powered mechanics. You can enter a bot ID just for this one too.
scorepoints, ID - give countless points to some bot. You can leave them blank and enter score to quickly have 1000 points.
colorr, g, b - enter decimals from 0 to 1 for that red, green, and blue to alter the sky color, which determines the historical past color for ones robot photos.
time - stops the match timer. Enter time1 to begin it again.
hurl - randomly throws around each of the computer players at 1000 power. Enter a number within the parenthesis for the different level of power.
The pack requires that you've the 1.3 patch from installed. As such, it is going to only work with all the CD version in the game.
Robot Arena 2: Design and Destroy is really a computer game manufactured by Infogrames. It may be the sequel to Robot Arena. It has many extra features, including the Havok physics engine, fully 3-D environments This includes being in a position to flip over other robots, and total customization within your robot. This includes chassis design, weapon placement, mechanics, and also paint. The cheatbot code from your original returns, these times offering a Hovercraft Engine, a Magnet, a Flamethrower, and also a Cannon Though an upgrade patch is required for your cheat to look at effect. Weapons are completely customizable, including things like mounting weapons on various attachments, for example poles, disks, and tri-bars. Although the main was not received well by players, this game incorporates a very small but dedicated fanbase and small communities for your game will still be active today.
Robot Arena 2: Design and Destroy can be a computer game expressed by Gabriel Entertainment. It would be the sequel to Robot Arena. It has many the latest features, such as Havok physics engine, fully 3-D environments This includes being competent to flip over other robots, and total customization of your respective robot. This includes chassis design, weapon placement, mechanics, and also paint. The cheatbot code in the original returns, these times offering a Hovercraft Engine, a Magnet, a Flamethrower, plus a Cannon Though an upgrade patch is required for your cheat to look at effect. Weapons are completely customizable, including things for example mounting weapons on various attachments, for example poles, disks, and tri-bars. Although the main was not received well by players, this game carries a very small but dedicated fanbase and small communities for that game remain active today.
Several websites mentioned within the Communities section also ran tournaments of their very own that will be played online betwween two or higher users. Lag or latency in connections frequently posed problems, as well as various connection problems that would prevent users from battling one another, nevertheless the majority of these negatives failed to stop players from simply experiencing the spirit on the sport.
A tournament was started by Jimxorb around the official Robot Arena 2 forums with approval from staff, making it the 1st official tournament. There are actually 2 Middle Weight tournaments setup by Jimxorb Who had previous tournament arranging experience from his Bots4Battle days for the official website, many individuals entered plus the robot that won the initial tournament was obviously a robot developed by Jimxorb and Be0t, by using a popup spike within a wedge design effective at 1-3 hit KOs, energy that was back then unheard of, it had been called Death Port 2.
For the 2nd and final tournament Lu-Tze created a new arena that Jimxorb designed, it had corner grinders and low walls, permitting pushers and flippers a possibility of success against spinners and hammers. The well-built arena remains to be the favourite an entire world of many players even for this day, in addition, it had a picture of Be0ts winning robot printed around the floor from the arena Part in the prize inside original official tournament. RA2T2 was won by Be0t again, now with Death Port 3 who had been solely made and created by Jimxorb this time and energy to fit Be0ts driving style, however the robot was well made and incredibly strong it was now one common design. There were forget about tournaments following your second one.
AceUplink was home of arguably some in the most successful tournaments regarding registration numbers. Because of their links with a state Robot Arena 2 website, AceUplink had their foot inside the door early on from the life in the game. The first three tournaments were held to some single weight class, but Tournament Four included tournaments for three weight classes, like the custom Antweight class manufactured by member MiniDJBeirne. The fifth tournament which had been redubbed The Onslaught, the initial tournament try using a custom arena; an attribute later copied inside the community. A second Onslaught tournament was organized, but did not go far as interest within the game started fading. The meticulous organization of AceUplinks rules and brackets would later turn out being a centerpiece of future tournaments from a great many other websites. Site staffer Omega later contributed rankings based within the results of most completed tournaments. At the time of AceUplinks closing, Omega was 1 ranked with 43 wins and 17 losses.
Tournament 1 - Lightweight Combat, Best 2 from 3
Tournament 2 - Middleweight Clawtop, Best 3 away from 5
Tournament 3 - Middleweight Combat, Best 3 outside of 5
Tournament 4 - All Weight Combat, Best 3 outside of 5, Round-robin prelim
Antweight Winner: MiniDJBeirne 12-2 Record, 4 ringouts
Lightweight Winner: CARP 104 12-2 Record, 6 ringouts
Middleweight Winner: Omegaforce 12-1 Record, 3 KOs, 9 ringouts
Tournament 5 - Onslaught Custom Arena, Best 3 away from 5
Lightweight Winner: Omega 12-1 Record, 11 KOs, 1 ringout
Middleweight Winner: CARP 104 12-3 Record, 6 KOs, 3 ringouts
AON managed by Alphasim and BBEANS managed by Clickbeetle are two unique kinds of tournaments how the creators claim eliminates lag. This is accomplished by offering AI code to every single robot that may be entered and running the fights around the official computer. Fights are then taped and displayed online with the contenders to determine how their autonomous creations did in combat. Most fights are done in a very best 2 outside of 3 format from the event of a major accident caused due on the various physics problems inside game. With a not enough online human players recently, the many tournaments now take over shifted to this particular simpler type of fighting as there is not any need to line up convenient times for every player.
The default robots AKA Stock AI are listed below. Many with the robots have real-life counterparts, usually BattleBots. These are placed in parentheses.
There can also be three secret example bots that may only be seen using the Import Robot command.
One from the main reasons behind the games relative commercial failure was the relative instability with the Havoc physics engine. Several glitches put together revolving about the physics engine, as well as other others happened randomly. The inevitable result were Havok explosions, which regularly sent robots flying. Additionally, several glitches inside the game itself decreased the accuracy in the game. Examples of these glitches included overlapping, which allowed several components using a robot to consume the same space, plus the chicken glitch, which allowed extremely rapid rotation of your object. These glitches allowed complicated and powerful robots for being made, and quickly became a staple in the community. Additionally, the appearance of AAM advanced attaching method allowed even for more complex robots. AAM is often a technique during which file of merely one component temporarily replaces that regarding another component. The other component will then be placed on the robot, and files are returned to normalcy. The net effect of this is the fact that the builder are listed components where it might not normally be possible on account of space restrictions. This is normally frowned on from the community, mainly because it creates unbalanced robots and it is normally considered cheating.